How to Make a Smooth Move with your Pet - Moving with Cats

Author: Alexey Kazaryan

You know how stressful a move can be, and now imagine how your cat can feel on seeing you packing boxes and movers wrapping the furniture and taking it away. Cats are territorial animals and feel the change of environment much stronger than dogs. So for the happiness and safety of your pet, be sure to spare some of your time for him during the move. One of the best ways to reduce you cat's stress on a moving day is regular communication with him throughout the whole process of the move. Here are some practical tips to lessen the shock of the move for your cat and for you.

The simplest solution to make the move smoother and ensuring that the cat won't escape amid the confusion of the move is to board the cat in a cattery close to your new home, provided you are moving locally. If you don't have such an option than here are the steps to make your move as painless for the pet as possible.

Prepare the carrier for you cat. It should have good ventilation and strong body. Get your cat used to it before the move day. Usually cats associate carrier with unpleasant things like going to a veterinarian or to a groom. That's why it is better to change this association to a more pleasant one, for example by putting there some treats for your cat. Putting a little blanket or something else from the house you are moving out inside the carrier would also make your cat feel secure and at home.

Prepare the id tag for you cat and ensure that your pet wears it during the whole move period. Put the name of your cat, your telephone number and the address you are moving to. Make a picture of the cat before the moving day in case your cat gets lost during the upheaval of the move.

On the actual day of the move out lock your cat in an empty room. Make sure that the moving men won't come in there for any boxes or furniture. Cats usually don't like any confusion and disruption in the household that's why they sometimes prefer to leave home and run away, therefore the door to the cat's room should be locked and have a "Don't Open" sign. Put all the cat's belongings in there and don't let the movers load them in a moving van - it would be better if you take it on your own.

In case you are traveling to your new home by car, do some preparation regarding your cat. Get it gradually used to a car by making short trips long before the move day. Never leave your pet alone in the car. Don't worry much if the cat doesn't eat during the trip - it happens due to cat's anxiety about the move, but be sure it drinks regularly. And try to avoid letting the cat out of the carrier. A cat is much more difficult to find than a dog in case it gets lost in the moving process. Check the pet friendly hotels you can stop at on your way.

Traveling by air, be sure your cat wears id tag and also rabies tag as most states require it. Most airlines allow cats in the airliner cabin in a proper carrier. You can check with Delta Airline recommendations on shipping your pet. And don't let the cat out of the carrier until you get home.

Before moving take all the health records of your pet from the current veterinarian to transfer them to a new one. Find out the pet regulations in the area you are moving in ( you can use the website of USDA Veterinary Services) and check if pets allowed in your new home. If you know your cat gets very anxious and excited during a move check with the veterinarian - he might prescribe small doses of sedative. You get a word about using sedatives from American Veterinary Medical Association

On the move in day lock your cat in a spare room again with no access of the moving men to it. Bring the cat's belongings in first and make sure the cat knows where they are.

Get the cat acquainted with the new home gradually: room after the room - so it won't be overwhelmed by the new impressions. If you let your pet roam around the strange surroundings on its own it might get frightened.

Don't change the regular routine of a day for your cat throughout the whole move; remember the sense of being secure is the most important for your pet.

Moving pets webpage will help you to get further information on related topic.

http://www.ezmoving.com/
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Show You Care -- Neuter Your Cat

Author: Ron King

The hordes of homeless and feral cats everywhere are growing by leaps and bounds, and finally people are beginning to wake up to the necessity of neutering their cats.

Population Explosion

Because cats can reproduce several times a year, and kittens mature quickly, just 2 feral cats (the wild offspring of domestic cats) can quickly become 2,000. In fact, the feline reproduction statistics are staggering. 2 uncontrolled breeding cats produce: 2 litters a year, at a survival rate of 2.8 kittens per litter. Continued breeding will produce 12 cats the first year, 66 cats the second year, 2,201 cats in the third year, 3,822 cats in the fourth year, 12,680 cats in the fifth year, and on and on . . .

Unaltered Cats Spread Disease

Many of these feral cats are actually unaltered pet cats (or their offspring) that were released by owners who could no longer care for them. A colony of feral cats can spread diseases among pet cats and dogs in the area.

Even when these cats are fairly healthy, they are usually infested with fleas. Hungry cats will raid trash cans, and playful kittens will destroy shrubbery and soil lawn furniture.

Noise Pollution From Cats In Heat

When female cats are in heat, the colony can keep neighbors awake all night with their fighting and howling

Spaying and neutering cats provides several important benefits in addition to reducing the number of unwanted cats. If you have an un-neutered female cat at home, the sound of her mewling pitifully at the door will soon be joined by the yowling and shrieking of every tomcat in the neighborhood.Both indoor and outdoor tomcats will try to mark everything in sight with their odorous spray.

Reproductive Cancers In Unaltered Cats

Certain types of cancer are much more common in unaltered cats. These cancers of the reproductive organs are very rare in cats that are altered prior to 1 year of age. Unaltered cats can also develop a number of reproductive diseases that are contagious.

Help Make Every Cat A Wanted Cat

Kittens can be altered at quite a young age. Some humane societies routinely alter kittens at 8 weeks. While some veterinarians feel that it is better to wait until kittens are 5 or 6 months, that is often simply not a option. Certainly for feral kittens who are trapped for altering, then released back into their colonies, or for those who share a home with other unaltered cats, neutering at the earliest opportunity is critical.

Most cats heal well and without incident after being neutered. However, a cat can contract an infection in the incision. Check your cat daily to be sure the incision area has not turned red and puffy. If you notice your cat licking or chewing at the stitches, your vet may suggest a surgery collar to keep the stitches out of reach until the incision is healed. While male cats can be active and bouncy without injuring themselves after neutering, female cats should be confined indoors for a few days after the surgery.

Feline "Zero Population Growth"

Unless you're a cat breeder, your cat almost certainly would be better off neutered. The typical cost of neutering a cat is about $125 for a female and $65 for a male. If the cost is too much for you to afford, many communities have special funds available for neutering cats. Your humane society or veterinarian can give you more information.

Visit New Cat to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
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Super Cat Urine Prevention Tips

Author: Mike Taylor

Many times cat owners are at a loss as to why their cat doesn't use their litter box. Here are some great tips that can help you solve the problem.

The litter box is the first thing you should check. It should be in a quiet, private area of the house. Many people put them in their basements and leave the door open a little as this not only creates a private environment but also keeps odors to a minimum in the rest of the house.

Some use a closet but if you do this be sure and keep the box clean to reduce odors in such a confined space and don't forget to leave the door open!

Another placement possibility is under a table. Many people find a place without carpeting is best from a maintenance point of view as tile or cement is a lot easier to clean.

Ask yourself if you changed the litter box in any way:

* Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?

* Does the box need cleaning?

* Is a new litter being used or does it have too heavy a scent (clumping and unscented is best).

* Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.

* Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.

* The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can be an issue for older cats.

Do not put food and water near the litter box. Cats like these two areas kept separate (don't you?).

If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room if you can or cover the target area with furniture.

Put a bowl of food over the target area as cats like to keep their eating area away from their "bathroom".

Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.

If you have more than one cat get each one of them their own litter box.

Have you recently moved? A cat might smell an area where the previous owner's cat urinated.

Let the cat alone while it goes so it can have some privacy.

If it is a new cat in your home it could take from three to eight weeks to get adjusted to the new environment. Be patient!

Was there a recent addition or loss to the family? A new baby, spouse? This is usually temporary until the cat adjusts to the change in their environment.

A change in your schedule can throw off your cat's schedule as well and cause problems. Try and phase in major lifestyle changes gradually.

NEVER EVER punish the cat by kicking, hitting, chasing, screaming or rubbing their nose in their urine (remember the smell doesn't bother them). Cats cannot make the cause and effect connection like we can so punishment after the fact is useless and will only make matters worse.

Cats are naturally very clean animals and they know where they are going. It is important to remember this and try and help your cat overcome any stress or anxiety they might be having in a caring and loving manner.

For expert advice on cat urine problems and solutions visit www.cat-urine-remover.com
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Why Does My Cat Bite My Hand When I Stroke Her?

Author: Larry Chamberlain

You have settled into your favorite armchair, perhaps reading the final chapters of a gripping novel. Suddenly you are aware of the imploring stare of your cat sitting at your feet. You invite her onto your lap. Gently you begin to stroke her and your cat signals her appreciation with an audible purr.

One hand holding your book the other hand continuing to pet your mouser, you again get lost in your novel. All is well in the world with you and with your cat.

Suddenly your cat bites your hand!

Why did kitty do that? Why did she bite the hand that strokes her?

The experts don't agree on exactly why it is that some cats enjoy being petted, but end up biting. One thing that they do agree on is that when kitty bites at you, it's a sure sign that she has decided that she's had enough stroking.

Cats differ in the amount of petting they will accept, and not all cats respond by biting when they have had enough. Some cats simply jump from your lap and saunter off to investigate interests anew. But many cats will nip you and your animal is one of them.

Could you have known that a bite was on its way? Yes, there are often signs that cats give before biting. And, if you had not been so wrapped up in reading your novel, you may have paid heed to your little pets warning.

If kitty's tail begins to twitch, in a rolling flick, watch out! She's getting ready to chomp at your hand.

If your cats ears start turning towards the back of her head, or flatten against her head, that's a warning a bite is coming.

If your cat suddenly becomes restless, or stiffens and stares at your hand, she could be about to nip you.

If you noticed any of these signals, simply stop stroking your cat. Your pet will either stay on your lap or jump down and walk off, whichever happens you don't get bitten.

What you should not do is punish your cat for biting your hand. That simply does not work. Cats are more likely to identify the punishment with you rather than with their bad cat behavior. If you miss a warning sign and kitty manages to get her jaws around your hand, try to resist the temptation to pull your hand away or push your cat away. Simply freeze. Chances are that your cat will not sink her teeth in, she has got her message across, and you have stopped petting her.

If you try and push your cat away it is likely that she will fight with your hand resulting in skin punctures for you. (An animal bite can become infected quite easily, if your cat does draw blood clean up the wound scrupulously and seek the advice of your doctor.)

Why do some cats behave in this aggressive way? The degree of tolerance to petting may be genetic, or it may be learned behavior. If when your cat was a kitten you allowed her to chew on your hand in play, she learned that biting human hands was an OK thing to do. So, when she feels that she has had enough stroking (she's the boss remember,) she will bite at your hand to let you know - if you ignore her warning signals.

Some experts recommend the use of healthy tidbits, as a reward, in order to increase the time your cat will tolerate stroking. At the first warning signal offer kitty a treat, continue to stroke your cat gently for a time and offer her another reward. It is said that your cat will learn to connect petting with the tidbits and may, with patience, allow you to pet her for longer periods.

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Health Problems In Cats

Author: Ron King

It may come as a surprise, if you're a new cat owner, that many health problems may befall your feline friend. Some problems are easily preventable, while others are hereditary.

Hairballs

Hairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat's digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don't have a problem dislodging hairballs.

However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat's intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat's hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.

To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.

Worms

For many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain wait, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.

Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.

Urinary Tract Infections

Urinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat's urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.

Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus

FIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat's immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.

Feline Leukemia Virus

FLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.

Lyme Disease

If your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat's body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.

Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none -- symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet's behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:

(a) lethargy,
(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,
(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,
(d) loss of appetite.

The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.

Good Health Care

Taking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses.

Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.

Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.

Visit New Cat to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
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