Author: Anita Hampton
As cat owners know, cats will do some of the craziest things. Most are harmless, however, often cats will display abnormal, destructive behaviors. One such behavior, categorized as an inappropriate consumptive behavior is wool sucking. As it implies, a cat displaying this behavior will suck or chew on wool. The owner of such a cat might also find that the cat sucks or chews on the armpits of their sweaters, unfortunately when they are wearing the sweater!
Needless to say, this can become a very bothersome (and embarrassing!) habit. Wool sucking cats seem to prefer a woven material such as a sweater instead of raw wool. In some cats, the sucking begins with wool, but then progresses to other available materials such as cotton or even plastic. The behavior most often begins at puberty and, if left untreated, can lead to serious digestive illness and destruction of household items.
Why Do Cats Wool Suck?
The majority of cats that display this behavior are Siamese and this fact gives a strong indication that it can be inherited. It is not, however, related to any nutritional deficiencies, external stresses or to the sex or reproductive stage of the animal. One hypothesis is that this may be a behavior that is "left over" from the prolonged six-month suckling period that is common in feral (stray or wild) cats. Since domestic kittens are usually weaned at six weeks, this may result in suckling deprivation that is expressed by the sucking of man-made objects such as wool. Unfortunately, this idea has not been tested experimentally.
It has also been thought that cats may wool suck because the odor of lanolin in wool is similar to the odor of the fur around the nipples of the kitten's mother.
What to do With a Wool Sucking Cat
The treatments available to the owner of a wool sucking cat include behavior modification, drug therapy, and, in extreme cases, euthanasia.
Obviously, every attempt to control this behavior should be made in order to avoid having to put the animal down. This takes patience and perseverance on the part of you the cat owner.
Behavior Modification
The following are a few steps that you could take to help control a cat's wool sucking behavior: The first step is to remove any objects that the cat may suck or chew on.
This may mean confining the cat to one room of the house. In order to encourage the cat's natural meat eating instinct, a supply of rawhide or bones could be made available to the cat (no chicken bones!).
The next step in involves the use of some punishment: One method is to thump the cat on the nose and say, "No" when it begins to suck.
(Editors Note: The above statement is exclusively the viewpoint of the article writer and not of the staff of this blog. We do not condone nor endorse any form of physical punishment or aggressive behavior towards any animal.)
Another is to spy on the cat and use the trusty water pistol any time a cat is found sucking. In order for this kind of discipline to work, the punishment must be delivered immediately after every incorrect behavior occurs. For this reason, punishment often does not work because you cannot always punish the cat the moment it begins to suck and every time it sucks. The cat will take advantage of this and often turns the situation into a game. It will begin to sneak and lurk around to try and avoid getting caught. For these crafty cats, the use of slightly sprung mousetraps hidden in clothing may be effective. This allows punishment to be delivered even if you are not around.
Another technique that can be used involves a bottle of your favorite perfume and a bottle of Tabasco sauce. This method relies upon the association of a certain odor with a bad experience to deter the cat. By applying the perfume and hot sauce to an item of clothing, the cat that sucks on the clothing will associate the smell of the perfume with the unpleasant taste of the hot sauce.
Chemicals that can be administered
If punishment and/or the hot sauce do not work, there are various substances that you can give to your cat.
Since one possible explanation for wool sucking is a craving for lanolin, it can be fed to the cat. Although no nutritional deficiencies have been found in wool sucking cats, it has been found that feeding the cat a diet high in fiber can eliminate the behavior in some cases.
It has also been found that administering 0.5 g per day of thyroid hormone also controls some cases of wool sucking. For cats where none of the above treatments work, anti-anxiety drugs (e.g. amitriptyline HCL) may help however there are side effects to these drugs.
Prevention
Unfortunately, since it is not known exactly why cats wool suck, there are not many steps that you can take to prevent this behavior from occurring. However, here are a couple of points to keep in mind:
Siamese cat breeders should wait until kittens are 12 weeks old to wean.
This ensures an adequate suckling period. A cat displaying wool-sucking behavior should not be used for breeding because there is the possibility that the kittens could inherit the behavior.
Conclusions
Wool sucking is a peculiar and destructive behavior that is often hard to control. However, there are many ways in which this behavior can be controlled or eliminated, and with the development of new drugs, there may be even more options in the future. A lot of time and patience are required to successfully control wool sucking but these are rewarded by a normal cat, and clothing without holes!
http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
Eye Problems In Cats
Author: Anita Hampton
The most common disorder in cats is runny eyes. Infectious organisms such as the flu viruses or chlamydia cause conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the membranes lining the eyelids. This results in a discharge which is either watery and runny or thick and a greenish yellow color.
Occasionally a runny eye is caused by a disorder of the normal anatomy.
Tear glands continually produce secretions which lubricate the surface of the eyeball and flush particulate material into the tear ducts which then drain into the nose. If there's a blockage of the ducts, the tears have no choice but to spill over and run down the face. Blockage can occur if there has been previous damage to the ducts or if the cat has an abnormal anatomy.
Persian cats frequently have tear staining, partly because their tear ducts are kinked and partly because their eyeball shape prevents effective drainage. Chronic tear overspill causes a brown staining on the fur which is most noticeable in pale colored cats.
Runny eyes are also a result of tear overproduction if there is an irritation to the sensitive eyeball. The cause may be easily identified as in some longhaired cats where a clump of hair rubs the surface. Some can be much more difficult to detect; solitary aberrant hairs may grow inside the eyelid and can only be discovered by carrying out an extremely thorough examination under general anaesthetic.
The cornea is the clear outer covering of the eyeball and is a very sensitive structure. Flu infections can sometimes extend beyond the membranes and also affect the corneas. In very young kittens, the damage can be so severe that the cornea is extensively scarred and the cat grows up visually impaired or even blind.
Most corneal disease is encountered as a result of a bit of a punch up with another cat and a claw being poked in the eye. The puncture wound may be very obvious, particularly if a bit of claw is left behind in the eyeball.
In other cases there may be no apparent defects.
Mild corneal damage will heal well if the cat is supported with antibiotics but more severe damage may require surgery. Stitching the eyelids together often helps with the healing.
The iris is the structure which gives the eye its color, ranging from pink in albinos, to blue in Siamese, through all shades of yellows, coppers and greens. The iris is a muscular structure which contracts and expands in order to vary the amount of light which passes through to the back of the eye.
It has very delicate blood vessels and if a claw has managed to pierce through the cornea to the iris, the bleeding can be very dramatic.
Some of the more unpleasant feline infections, Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) virus, Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and toxoplasmosis can all cause disease in the iris.
The first sign an owner may notice is a change in color of the eye.
Close examination reveals changes in the shape of the iris and the presence of debris in the fluid behind the cornea. It is very difficult to distinguish which one of these infections has caused the abnormality, so further investigation is always necessary.
If there is a diseased iris, also have to consider the possibility of a tumor. T he two most commonly encountered are lymphosarcoma, a solid form of leukemia, and melanoma, a cancer of the pigment producing cells.
If an iris has been affected by a treatable condition, it may be left with permanent color change and a distorted shape because of adhesions or scar tissue produced during the healing response. Not all areas of new pigment are associated with disease. Some cats, particularly orange colored individuals, can develop little dark patches of pigment in the iris as they age, but any change in eye color should always be checked by your vet.
The retina is a fine membranous structure which lines the back of the eyeball.
Light passes through the pupil and the lens and lands on the retina.
There it stimulates nerve endings which cause electrical signals to be sent to the brain where the information is interpreted as vision.
Any abnormality of the color, the reflectivity or the blood vessels indicates disease of the retina. One of the most serious conditions is a generalized degeneration of the retina. The retina appears to be very bright.
Blood vessels become much finer and in advanced cases are barely visible.
The retina can detach from the underlying tissue if there is a leakage or overproduction of fluid between the layers, or if there is bleeding.
High blood pressure resulting from kidney failure or an overactive thyroid gland can cause this eye problem.
Retinal detachments tend to be quite dramatic in onset and owners report that the cat appears to have gone blind overnight. The pupils are massively dilated and instead of a smooth concave surface there are billowing folds of retina. There is virtually no hope of restoration of eyesight in these cases.
The thought of a blind cat is quite horrifying to most owners but a combination of the cat not knowing it's supposed to worry about its lack of vision and its other senses being so well developed means they actually cope remarkably well. If the environment is kept as constant as possible, most individuals adapt very well to their surroundings.
Many problems in cats are self -limiting and given one or two days most will rectify themselves. Eye conditions should be treated with a little more respect and a little more urgency even if the cat appears to be totally indifferent to its problem. A mild disorder can result in quite dramatic and devastating changes to the eye if left untreated so don't delay and seek expert advice as soon as possible.
http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
The most common disorder in cats is runny eyes. Infectious organisms such as the flu viruses or chlamydia cause conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the membranes lining the eyelids. This results in a discharge which is either watery and runny or thick and a greenish yellow color.
Occasionally a runny eye is caused by a disorder of the normal anatomy.
Tear glands continually produce secretions which lubricate the surface of the eyeball and flush particulate material into the tear ducts which then drain into the nose. If there's a blockage of the ducts, the tears have no choice but to spill over and run down the face. Blockage can occur if there has been previous damage to the ducts or if the cat has an abnormal anatomy.
Persian cats frequently have tear staining, partly because their tear ducts are kinked and partly because their eyeball shape prevents effective drainage. Chronic tear overspill causes a brown staining on the fur which is most noticeable in pale colored cats.
Runny eyes are also a result of tear overproduction if there is an irritation to the sensitive eyeball. The cause may be easily identified as in some longhaired cats where a clump of hair rubs the surface. Some can be much more difficult to detect; solitary aberrant hairs may grow inside the eyelid and can only be discovered by carrying out an extremely thorough examination under general anaesthetic.
The cornea is the clear outer covering of the eyeball and is a very sensitive structure. Flu infections can sometimes extend beyond the membranes and also affect the corneas. In very young kittens, the damage can be so severe that the cornea is extensively scarred and the cat grows up visually impaired or even blind.
Most corneal disease is encountered as a result of a bit of a punch up with another cat and a claw being poked in the eye. The puncture wound may be very obvious, particularly if a bit of claw is left behind in the eyeball.
In other cases there may be no apparent defects.
Mild corneal damage will heal well if the cat is supported with antibiotics but more severe damage may require surgery. Stitching the eyelids together often helps with the healing.
The iris is the structure which gives the eye its color, ranging from pink in albinos, to blue in Siamese, through all shades of yellows, coppers and greens. The iris is a muscular structure which contracts and expands in order to vary the amount of light which passes through to the back of the eye.
It has very delicate blood vessels and if a claw has managed to pierce through the cornea to the iris, the bleeding can be very dramatic.
Some of the more unpleasant feline infections, Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) virus, Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and toxoplasmosis can all cause disease in the iris.
The first sign an owner may notice is a change in color of the eye.
Close examination reveals changes in the shape of the iris and the presence of debris in the fluid behind the cornea. It is very difficult to distinguish which one of these infections has caused the abnormality, so further investigation is always necessary.
If there is a diseased iris, also have to consider the possibility of a tumor. T he two most commonly encountered are lymphosarcoma, a solid form of leukemia, and melanoma, a cancer of the pigment producing cells.
If an iris has been affected by a treatable condition, it may be left with permanent color change and a distorted shape because of adhesions or scar tissue produced during the healing response. Not all areas of new pigment are associated with disease. Some cats, particularly orange colored individuals, can develop little dark patches of pigment in the iris as they age, but any change in eye color should always be checked by your vet.
The retina is a fine membranous structure which lines the back of the eyeball.
Light passes through the pupil and the lens and lands on the retina.
There it stimulates nerve endings which cause electrical signals to be sent to the brain where the information is interpreted as vision.
Any abnormality of the color, the reflectivity or the blood vessels indicates disease of the retina. One of the most serious conditions is a generalized degeneration of the retina. The retina appears to be very bright.
Blood vessels become much finer and in advanced cases are barely visible.
The retina can detach from the underlying tissue if there is a leakage or overproduction of fluid between the layers, or if there is bleeding.
High blood pressure resulting from kidney failure or an overactive thyroid gland can cause this eye problem.
Retinal detachments tend to be quite dramatic in onset and owners report that the cat appears to have gone blind overnight. The pupils are massively dilated and instead of a smooth concave surface there are billowing folds of retina. There is virtually no hope of restoration of eyesight in these cases.
The thought of a blind cat is quite horrifying to most owners but a combination of the cat not knowing it's supposed to worry about its lack of vision and its other senses being so well developed means they actually cope remarkably well. If the environment is kept as constant as possible, most individuals adapt very well to their surroundings.
Many problems in cats are self -limiting and given one or two days most will rectify themselves. Eye conditions should be treated with a little more respect and a little more urgency even if the cat appears to be totally indifferent to its problem. A mild disorder can result in quite dramatic and devastating changes to the eye if left untreated so don't delay and seek expert advice as soon as possible.
http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
Finding Good Homes For Cats And Kittens
Author: Anita Hampton
Finding good homes for cats and kittens can be a difficult task.
Giving them away from a cardboard box in your supermarket's parking lot is not considered finding a good home! You need to make sure that the adopters are willing to make the commitment to care for a cat for the next twenty years.
Did you ever wonder what happened to them after they were taken away?
To be honest, not everyone who adopts one of your sweet little kittens or puppies is being totally honest with you when they say the animal will have a good home.
Giving away any animal. whether it be an adult or a baby, without screening the potential adopter and without charging some sort of good faith fee can put your animal in dangers that you never would have considered.
There are people who make their living by go around picking up these "Free To a Good Home" animals and sell them to labs for medical research. You don't want to know what happens to them there. They will even bring kids with them so you believe they are a happy family looking for a little kitten
Free animals are also taken for sacrifice, they are used for bait to train attack dogs, they are even used for food for snakes. By just giving them away, you are basically saying that these animals have no value at all.
By putting a set price on them you are making it less desirable for these people as you are eating up their profit.
If you don't feel right about asking a price for a kitten, you can request that a donation be made to your favorite charity or local animal shelter.
You've cared enough about this animal to find it a good home, that entitles you to a donation, or to asking for one for your chosen charity.
How To Find Potential Good Homes For Your Kittens
* Place posters in your local veterinarian's office, or humane society or animal shelter if they will allow it....always ask first.
* Be careful about putting an ad in the paper. At the very least - do not put a "free kittens or puppies to good homes" ad in the paper.
Here are some of the people that might answer those ads:
Third-class dealers who sell the cats or puppies for about 30 dollars a piece to labs that perform medical experiments on them.
Although animal labs typically get their "subjects" from breeders (and some breeders make a lot of money selling kittens and puppies and other animals to labs), some protocols also call for an "unknown" group of animals, to be used as a control group in the experiment.
You may also get a visit from a fighting dog trainer. Sadly, some dog owners train their dogs to be killers by using live animals as targets.
Then, there are the just plain mean people who abound. Of course, none of these types of "adopters" will identify the true nature of their interest.
* Talk to trusted family members and close trusted friends who are interested in adopting the kittens or puppies. Preferably you want them to live with someone whom you would trust with your own pet, and who has had pets before. Granted, this isn't always possible.
Once You Get A Contact
Screen adopters carefully! Grill them all you want. See if they've had pets before. Find out why they want a new pet. Ask for identification and get an address. If at all possible, try to visit their home to observe the condition, particularly of other animals in the house.
You can draw up a small contract - it is legally binding, in fact (although enforcing it may be a problem.) You can call a shelter, rescue group, or breeder organization for guidelines. In writing, the adopter should commit to the following:
They will spay or neuter the kitten
They will give the kitten proper veterinary care - yearly exams, vaccinations, and visits to examine suspected health problems
The adopter will make the pet a member of the family. That means a companion FOR LIFE.
"Red flags" to watch for. These certainly aren't automatic disqualifications, but they do merit additional investigation.
Many young kids in the house Frequent traveling or business trips
A small apartment that already has other animals
College students living on campus
Military families
Sadly, the latter two categories contribute heavily to the feral cat colonies that abound college campuses and military bases, because of their transient nature.
Don't be shy about requesting a follow up visit or three.
Screen people very carefully over the phone and check all references before allowing them to come to your home to see the animal. The best reference is one from a veterinarian. It's very easy for a person to list their friends, who may not be honest, as references. A veterinary reference is the best way to check the person you are dealing with.
Don't hesitate to say "no" to someone who doesn't "feel right," even after they have visited the pet. If no is difficult to say, tell them that other interested people are coming later, and you'll call them.
You should ideally leave time to visit the home of the new owner before giving up your pet; this allows you to see the pet's new surroundings and to see if the person in fact resides at the address given.
http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
Finding good homes for cats and kittens can be a difficult task.
Giving them away from a cardboard box in your supermarket's parking lot is not considered finding a good home! You need to make sure that the adopters are willing to make the commitment to care for a cat for the next twenty years.
Did you ever wonder what happened to them after they were taken away?
To be honest, not everyone who adopts one of your sweet little kittens or puppies is being totally honest with you when they say the animal will have a good home.
Giving away any animal. whether it be an adult or a baby, without screening the potential adopter and without charging some sort of good faith fee can put your animal in dangers that you never would have considered.
There are people who make their living by go around picking up these "Free To a Good Home" animals and sell them to labs for medical research. You don't want to know what happens to them there. They will even bring kids with them so you believe they are a happy family looking for a little kitten
Free animals are also taken for sacrifice, they are used for bait to train attack dogs, they are even used for food for snakes. By just giving them away, you are basically saying that these animals have no value at all.
By putting a set price on them you are making it less desirable for these people as you are eating up their profit.
If you don't feel right about asking a price for a kitten, you can request that a donation be made to your favorite charity or local animal shelter.
You've cared enough about this animal to find it a good home, that entitles you to a donation, or to asking for one for your chosen charity.
How To Find Potential Good Homes For Your Kittens
* Place posters in your local veterinarian's office, or humane society or animal shelter if they will allow it....always ask first.
* Be careful about putting an ad in the paper. At the very least - do not put a "free kittens or puppies to good homes" ad in the paper.
Here are some of the people that might answer those ads:
Third-class dealers who sell the cats or puppies for about 30 dollars a piece to labs that perform medical experiments on them.
Although animal labs typically get their "subjects" from breeders (and some breeders make a lot of money selling kittens and puppies and other animals to labs), some protocols also call for an "unknown" group of animals, to be used as a control group in the experiment.
You may also get a visit from a fighting dog trainer. Sadly, some dog owners train their dogs to be killers by using live animals as targets.
Then, there are the just plain mean people who abound. Of course, none of these types of "adopters" will identify the true nature of their interest.
* Talk to trusted family members and close trusted friends who are interested in adopting the kittens or puppies. Preferably you want them to live with someone whom you would trust with your own pet, and who has had pets before. Granted, this isn't always possible.
Once You Get A Contact
Screen adopters carefully! Grill them all you want. See if they've had pets before. Find out why they want a new pet. Ask for identification and get an address. If at all possible, try to visit their home to observe the condition, particularly of other animals in the house.
You can draw up a small contract - it is legally binding, in fact (although enforcing it may be a problem.) You can call a shelter, rescue group, or breeder organization for guidelines. In writing, the adopter should commit to the following:
They will spay or neuter the kitten
They will give the kitten proper veterinary care - yearly exams, vaccinations, and visits to examine suspected health problems
The adopter will make the pet a member of the family. That means a companion FOR LIFE.
"Red flags" to watch for. These certainly aren't automatic disqualifications, but they do merit additional investigation.
Many young kids in the house Frequent traveling or business trips
A small apartment that already has other animals
College students living on campus
Military families
Sadly, the latter two categories contribute heavily to the feral cat colonies that abound college campuses and military bases, because of their transient nature.
Don't be shy about requesting a follow up visit or three.
Screen people very carefully over the phone and check all references before allowing them to come to your home to see the animal. The best reference is one from a veterinarian. It's very easy for a person to list their friends, who may not be honest, as references. A veterinary reference is the best way to check the person you are dealing with.
Don't hesitate to say "no" to someone who doesn't "feel right," even after they have visited the pet. If no is difficult to say, tell them that other interested people are coming later, and you'll call them.
You should ideally leave time to visit the home of the new owner before giving up your pet; this allows you to see the pet's new surroundings and to see if the person in fact resides at the address given.
http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
Domestic Short Hair - The facts every owner of this cat breed should know
Author: Robert Benjamin
Descended from 'working cats' that came to America on ships like the Mayflower to hunt rats, selective breeding resulted in today s Domestic Short Hair. The Domestic Short Hair cat was renamed the American Short Hair in 1966 to better reflect this breed s heritage. Today, the name 'Domestic Short Hair' is given to cats whose parentage is in question. Adult male Domestic Short Hairs will reach an average weight of 11 to 15 pounds, but females will only weigh 8 to 12 pounds. They are considered fully mature at 3 to 4 years of age and can live 15 to 20 years.
The American Short Hair coat can come in many colors in patterns. In fact, almost 80 different patterns of colors are recognized in this breed. It is an all weather coat that is dense but won t mat. It should be brushed regularly to remove the dead hairs if the cat will not groom itself.
There are also as many different personality characteristics in Domestic Short Hairs from the stereotypical aloofness to the surprisingly friendly and social. This is a fairly healthy breed (part of its working cat parentage), so it is a relatively low maintenance breed, requiring nothing more than routine health care. However, some Domestic Short Hairs are prone to overeating, so it is important to give them plenty of opportunity to exercise and play. Those that cannot (or will not) engage in exercise will need to have its diet monitored closely to avoid potential problems with obesity.
There is a website that has great information on Domestic Short Hair and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:
http://www.dogandcatfacts.com
By Robert W. Benjamin
Copyright © 2006
You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.
About The Author
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25 years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
RB59.COM Software
http://www.rb59.com/software
Descended from 'working cats' that came to America on ships like the Mayflower to hunt rats, selective breeding resulted in today s Domestic Short Hair. The Domestic Short Hair cat was renamed the American Short Hair in 1966 to better reflect this breed s heritage. Today, the name 'Domestic Short Hair' is given to cats whose parentage is in question. Adult male Domestic Short Hairs will reach an average weight of 11 to 15 pounds, but females will only weigh 8 to 12 pounds. They are considered fully mature at 3 to 4 years of age and can live 15 to 20 years.
The American Short Hair coat can come in many colors in patterns. In fact, almost 80 different patterns of colors are recognized in this breed. It is an all weather coat that is dense but won t mat. It should be brushed regularly to remove the dead hairs if the cat will not groom itself.
There are also as many different personality characteristics in Domestic Short Hairs from the stereotypical aloofness to the surprisingly friendly and social. This is a fairly healthy breed (part of its working cat parentage), so it is a relatively low maintenance breed, requiring nothing more than routine health care. However, some Domestic Short Hairs are prone to overeating, so it is important to give them plenty of opportunity to exercise and play. Those that cannot (or will not) engage in exercise will need to have its diet monitored closely to avoid potential problems with obesity.
There is a website that has great information on Domestic Short Hair and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:
http://www.dogandcatfacts.com
By Robert W. Benjamin
Copyright © 2006
You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.
About The Author
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25 years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
RB59.COM Software
http://www.rb59.com/software
Cat Behaviour Problems: The Most Common Problem And How To Deal With It
Author: Paul Bicknell
Cats make excellent pets and have recently overtaken dogs as Britain’s favourite pet. There are many reasons for this shift but it may well be a reflection of the fact that our lifestyles have become busier and more hectic so we no longer have the time to devote to more demanding pets. Cats need less space, less food, don’t need to be walked twice a day and are generally easier to care for. However they can be prone to behaviour problems which may lead to extremely unpleasant ‘deposits’ around the home, ruined furniture and limbs covered in bites and scratches. Here is some information regarding the most common cat behaviour problem and some tips to help treat it…
Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ‘rubbing it’s nose in it’. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.
The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: -
1. Medical Problems such as:
· Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
· Bacterial Infections
· Tumours
· Kidney Disease
· Liver Disease
Treatment
· Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
· If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.
Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: -
2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:
· Not emptied often enough
· Not clean
· Too many cats using the same box
· Overuse of deodorizers
· Changing the type or brand of the litter
· Changing the location
· Too near to ‘frightening’ domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine
Treatment
· Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
· Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
· Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant – there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
· If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it’s own litter box
· Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn’t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
· If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
· Move the box away from the ‘frightening’ noise or move the appliance that’s causing the problem
· Consider a covered litter box/tray. This gives the cat more privacy, which many prefer and it also helps with odour control and prevents litter being kicked out of the box.
3. Stress/Trauma:
· New cats introduced to the household
· Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
· Workmen carrying out work in the household
· Moving house
· A change in routine e.g. new working hours
· Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
· A new baby
Treatment
· Try to give each cat it’s ‘own space’ within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
· Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it’s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
· The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
· Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
· A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her
Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ‘abusive human behaviour’.
About The Author
Paul Bicknell recommends Solutions To Cat Behaviour Problems. See more at http://www.cat-answers.com.
Cats make excellent pets and have recently overtaken dogs as Britain’s favourite pet. There are many reasons for this shift but it may well be a reflection of the fact that our lifestyles have become busier and more hectic so we no longer have the time to devote to more demanding pets. Cats need less space, less food, don’t need to be walked twice a day and are generally easier to care for. However they can be prone to behaviour problems which may lead to extremely unpleasant ‘deposits’ around the home, ruined furniture and limbs covered in bites and scratches. Here is some information regarding the most common cat behaviour problem and some tips to help treat it…
Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ‘rubbing it’s nose in it’. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.
The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: -
1. Medical Problems such as:
· Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
· Bacterial Infections
· Tumours
· Kidney Disease
· Liver Disease
Treatment
· Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
· If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.
Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: -
2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:
· Not emptied often enough
· Not clean
· Too many cats using the same box
· Overuse of deodorizers
· Changing the type or brand of the litter
· Changing the location
· Too near to ‘frightening’ domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine
Treatment
· Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
· Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
· Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant – there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
· If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it’s own litter box
· Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn’t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
· If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
· Move the box away from the ‘frightening’ noise or move the appliance that’s causing the problem
· Consider a covered litter box/tray. This gives the cat more privacy, which many prefer and it also helps with odour control and prevents litter being kicked out of the box.
3. Stress/Trauma:
· New cats introduced to the household
· Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
· Workmen carrying out work in the household
· Moving house
· A change in routine e.g. new working hours
· Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
· A new baby
Treatment
· Try to give each cat it’s ‘own space’ within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
· Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it’s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
· The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
· Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
· A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her
Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ‘abusive human behaviour’.
About The Author
Paul Bicknell recommends Solutions To Cat Behaviour Problems. See more at http://www.cat-answers.com.