Author: Drew Pilton
In general cat food can be classified into dry, moist, and semi-moist foods. Each one has its advantages, and Ragdolls require various kinds of food at different stages. Kittens need on the whole breast milk and moist food, while adults require more protein and dry food. Pregnant Ragdolls have special dietary needs that change throughout the pregnancy as well.
A. Feeding Ragdoll Kittens
Introductory food
Ragdoll kittens should be only breastfed for the first four to five weeks. Cat milk consists of all the nutrients required for the kitten's growth, including antibodies that help prevent disease. Breast milk also passes on other antibodies that the mother produced to fight previous diseases.
Additional food ought to be supplied after four to five weeks, as the kitten requires more nutrients to support its fast growth. Introductory food should be easy to digest. Mix canned food with warm water or kitten replacement milk until it constitutes a loose paste. Do NOT use regular cow's milk this is too heavy for kittens and may possibly result in indigestion.
Dry food
After another four to five weeks, your kitten should be ready for dry food. To make the change easier, moisten dry food with a little warm water in the first few feedings. It's also important to choose high-quality supplements to dry food and some of the good brands are Iams®, Science Diet®, and Nutro Kitten®. Science Diet Feline Growth® is popular among Ragdoll kittens. Supplements can be given twice a day with morning and evening feeding. You can switch to adult food after approximately 12 months.
Choosing and preparing kitten food
Ragdoll kittens have fragile stomachs, so take extra care in choosing kitten food. Food ought to always be warm or slightly above room temperature. Discard any food that has been left out for more than 30 minutes, especially in the summer. Bacteria grows quickly in warm, wet foods and may upset your kitten's stomach, or even cause food poisoning. To stop wasting food, just watch how much your kitten eats at a time so you know how much to prepare per feeding.
House flies can easily contaminate kitten food, so keep your feeding area as fly-proof as possible. Wash the feeding bowl each day with hot, soapy water and replace water in the drinking bowl several times a day. Wash the drinking bowl at the same time and refill with fresh water.
Table scraps can be provided occasionally, but don't make regular meals out of them. Cooked human foods lack the nutrients necessary for your kitten's growth. Generic cat food from groceries are much better, but Stellarhart recommends high-quality foods from specialty pet stores. Also, cats don't like the smell of plastic and metal containers, so use only glass drinking bowls.
Dry vs wet foods
Dry foods are generally better for your Ragdoll, except in the breastfeeding and introductory stage. They work your kitten's chewing muscles and help keep the teeth white. Dry food consists mostly of meat and vegetables, and can be moistened or served dry. Serving them dry allows your cat to nibble throughout the day, rather than eating one large meal at a time. Dry food ought to contain about 9 to 10% moisture, 8% fat, and 30% protein.
Moist food contains about 75% moisture and equal amounts of fat and protein. Not all moist foods are the same some are all-meat or all-fish, while others are a mix of meat and vegetables. The former should not be used for regular meals, as your cat can get addicted and refuse to eat other foods. The small treat cans of variety foods are usually all-meat or all-fish. As with kitten food, moist foods ought to be warmed to room temperature before serving.
Semi-moist food has about 35% water, 27% protein, and 7% fat. Most of them are nutritionally balanced, highly palatable, and can be left out for nibbling, but they spoil faster than dry food.
Kitten treats
Occasional kitten treats will not harm your kitten, but take care not to fill them up so they can still eat regular meals. Treats ought to not provide any more than 10% of your kitten's daily caloric intake. Look for hard chew treats to help improve your kitten's dental health
B. Feeding Ragdoll Adults
Ragdolls are not very active, so they gain weight quicker than other cats. Take care not to let them become obese provide them only 70 calories per kilogram of body weight. A lot of what people believe to be cats’ favourite foods are actually harmful. Here are some of the most common cat food myths:
Fish
Fish may be good for cats, but it can’t cover all their nutritional needs, and too much of the same nutrients can be harmful. Tuna is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which need vitamin E to break them down. a large amount tuna in your cat’s diet can lead to yellow fat disease (steatitis).
Milk
Milk is rich in water and carbohydrates, but many cats are lactose intolerant and get digestive problems a few hours after drinking milk. Regular cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and loose stools, which can cause malnutrition and dehydration. If your cat likes milk, use replacement cat milk instead.
Catnip
Cats love the smell of catnip leaves, but it can cause short-term behavioural changes. Catnip is a hallucinogen and may put your cat in a state of near delirium. Some effects include rolling, rubbing, chasing phantom mice, or simply staring into space. Although it’s not addictive, catnip has no place in your cat’s diet.
Dog food
It could be more convenient to feed your cat and dog from the same dish, but it’s not very healthy for either pet. Cats need more protein, taurine, preformed vitamin A, B-complex vitamins, and arachidonic acids, which they can get from a meat-heavy diet. A lack of these nutrients can make your cat seriously ill, and an overdose can have the same effect in dogs.
Low ash diets
A popular belief among cat owners is that diets low in ash can help discourage urinary tract infection. But that’s only partly true. Ash is not a single nutrient, but is actually a group of minerals including calcium, copper, magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc. Lower levels of magnesium keep urine at its normal, slightly acidic state, but reducing other minerals will have no effect.
Other foods to avoid
Alcoholic beverages.
Alcohol can be toxic and lead to fatal complications.
Baby food.
Many baby foods contain onion powder, which can be harmful to the blood.
Fish and meat bones.
Small fragments can cut into the digestive tract and cause bleeding.
Caffeine (coffee, tea, chocolate).
Caffeine can affect the cat’s heart and nervous system.
Citrus oil extracts.
This can lead to stomach upsets and vomiting.
Fat.
Animal fats can lead to pancreatitis.
Don’t feed your cat fatty cooked meats, or at least trim the fat off first.
Grapes and raisins.
These contain a toxin that can harm the kidneys.
Human vitamin and iron supplements.
Excessive iron can damage the liver, kidneys, and the lining of the digestive tract.
Liver.
Liver is safe in small amounts, but a large amount can lead to vitamin A toxicity.
Macadamia nuts.
Unknown toxins in macadamia can damage the muscles, digestive system, and nervous system.
Marijuana.
Marijuana can lead to vomiting, depression, and irregular heart rate.
Mushrooms.
Some mushrooms contain highly toxic substances that can affect multiple systems and even cause death.
Onion and garlic (powdered, cooked or raw).
These contain disulfides and sulfoxides, which can cause anaemia. They are harmful to both cats and dogs, but cats are more vulnerable.
Persimmons.
Persimmons seeds can obstruct the intestines.
Potato, tomato and rhubarb.
These can be harmful to the nervous, digestive, and urinary systems. The leaves and stems may also be toxic.
Raw eggs.
Raw eggs can damage your cat’s hair and coat.
Salt.
Salt and salty foods can lead to electrolyte imbalance, a potentially fatal condition affecting the heart and nervous system.
String.
Strings from beans and other vegetables may possibly not be digested, which can cause blockages.
Sugar.
Sweets are high in empty calories, which can lead to obesity, diabetes, and dental problems.
Yeast dough.
Yeast can expand in the stomach during digestion, causing it to rupture.
Just remember that you are not feeding a human but an animal with unique feeding requirements.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_172515_54.html
How To Look After Your Pregnant Cat
Author: Jess Talbot
You have obviously decided that letting your kitty have birth to little bundles of joy. If your cat is under a year old it may pay to seek advice from your vetenarian as cat mothers of a young age increases the possibility of giving birth to deformed kittens.
Your kitty can also give birth to an average 3 kittens 3 times a year so make sure you book an appointment for after the birth to neuter your kitty to prevent future pregnancies. The world's cat population is vastly increasing with over 50 different breds, and so many inhumane people out there you will find feral cats come in abundance in most big cities.
Make sure mother is warm and safe at all times. Feed her small meals throughout the day and make sure you change her to a special diet full of vitamins and minerals to put her in top condition for pregnancy. Always have plenty of water available.
Find an out of the way place, such as a warm cupboard for mother to be able to escape away before and after birth with the kittens.
To find out more about your kitty, his health, find toys for him to play with and discover how to get rid of cat urine odor from carpets visit www.thecatsclaws.com!
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_65739_54.html
You have obviously decided that letting your kitty have birth to little bundles of joy. If your cat is under a year old it may pay to seek advice from your vetenarian as cat mothers of a young age increases the possibility of giving birth to deformed kittens.
Your kitty can also give birth to an average 3 kittens 3 times a year so make sure you book an appointment for after the birth to neuter your kitty to prevent future pregnancies. The world's cat population is vastly increasing with over 50 different breds, and so many inhumane people out there you will find feral cats come in abundance in most big cities.
Make sure mother is warm and safe at all times. Feed her small meals throughout the day and make sure you change her to a special diet full of vitamins and minerals to put her in top condition for pregnancy. Always have plenty of water available.
Find an out of the way place, such as a warm cupboard for mother to be able to escape away before and after birth with the kittens.
To find out more about your kitty, his health, find toys for him to play with and discover how to get rid of cat urine odor from carpets visit www.thecatsclaws.com!
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_65739_54.html
30 Tips to Keep Cats Out of Your Garden
Author: harvey
Are you bothered by cats coming into your garden and doing their business, scaring your birds away, or getting up to other mischief?
Here is a list of 30 deterrents you could try:
1. If a Tom starts to mark his new territory you could mark over it yourself although it may surprise the neighbours!
2. You can buy repellent pellets from garden centres that smell like citrus fruits, which apparently cats don't like.
3. Or you could use the real thing lemon or citrus peels work for a bit but you have to keep replacing them every three or four days. Not good for a big space unless you really really like lemonade.
4. You could try planting Coleus Canina which emits a foul odour when a cat rubs itself against it, but I'd imagine you'd have to cover quite a large area (depending on the size of your garden) for it to be effective.
5. Lion dung is said to keep them out but it may smell even worse than cats poo, but it's good for the roses.
6. Small sticks pushed into the ground so that approximately six to 12 inches are sticking out of the ground like spikes. They must be close enough together to prevent cats snuggling their bottoms down between them to poo.
7. Get a dog.
8. Some say Jeyes disinfectant fluid around the edges of the garden works but the fluid is actually quite poisonous to cats and will kill them in fairly small amounts.
9. Spray water at them, not from a hose, from one of those spray bottles from a garden centre or use or a super-soaking water gun for cats further away.
10. I have heard that they don't like garlic.
11. A friend suggested moth balls worked for her.
12. Sprinkle black pepper & chilli around the garden, harmless to animals but an effective deterrent apparently.
13. Getting a cat yourself often works. Its very unusual for a cat to poop in its own garden, and other cats won't really come near another cats area, unless it likes them, and then it wont poop 'cos it respects the area!
14. Catch the cat and rub its nose in it (not so it smudges all over the cat, just near it) then put the cat in next doors garden, or wherever you wish it to poop from now on.
15. You can buy some pet repellent spray from the DIY stores. It is harmless to animals and children.
16. Solid toilet blocks (used in public loos usually) crumbled around.
17. Scatter citrus peel (oranges & lemons) around the garden.
18. Place pine cones around near garden borders.
19. Plant geraniums, marigolds and petunias, cats apparently dislike those plants.
20. Grow spiky plants near areas you want to keep cats away from.
21. Ask local cat owners to provide an inside litter tray for their cats to discourage outside toileting.
22. Or if the cat owner doesn't want/can't have inside trays...Ask them to dig a pit in their garden, several feet deep and 2 foot square and fill with peat. Then all that is needed is for this outside toilet to be dug over frequently.
23. If you have bare soil cover it with gravel or slate chippings etc, it will discourage digging.
24. Keep your lawn short. If you let your lawn get to 3" ish high, they will poo in it and not bury it.
25. Place a small length of hosepipe in amongst your plants, cats and birds don't like snakes!
26. Invest in a bag of coffee (grounds), and spread around the garden.
27. Plant some lavender. It works for some and smells divine and for some reason the cats hate it.
28. Olbas oil (the one you put on pillows for blocked noses) works pretty well.
29. Water 'Scarecrow' that squirts water at things it detects moving, including you!
30. If all the foregoing makes you despair then go the high-tech route and buy yourself an ultrasonic cat repeller.
They have a motion detector built-in, can be mains powered and emit a high decibel tone that only cats can here. Problem solved.
I use one at my house and found it excellent. Didn't hear any noises from it and it didn't bother the dogs next door either. I'd recommend the mains powered one rather than using batteries, they never seem to last for very long, but battery power does give more flexibility.
It has a PIR which means that it is only emitting 'noise' while the cat is in range so the cat cannot 'learn' to tolerate it. This also saves batteries (if you use them). There is an alternative of purchasing a mains connector if the battery option doesn't work out well.
They only activate when a large enough object passes by, humans included , and only go for a short time so small mammals are OK. There has been no reduction in bat activity where we live and no signs of them being mis-directed either.
The cat repeller is fantastic. Not a single cat in the garden at the moment, and when they appear they skulk along the wall and don't stay. I really recommend this investment.
If you are bothered by cats coming into your garden and doing their business, or scaring your birds away first read these 30 tips, the last one really works CLICK HERE
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_171947_27.html
Are you bothered by cats coming into your garden and doing their business, scaring your birds away, or getting up to other mischief?
Here is a list of 30 deterrents you could try:
1. If a Tom starts to mark his new territory you could mark over it yourself although it may surprise the neighbours!
2. You can buy repellent pellets from garden centres that smell like citrus fruits, which apparently cats don't like.
3. Or you could use the real thing lemon or citrus peels work for a bit but you have to keep replacing them every three or four days. Not good for a big space unless you really really like lemonade.
4. You could try planting Coleus Canina which emits a foul odour when a cat rubs itself against it, but I'd imagine you'd have to cover quite a large area (depending on the size of your garden) for it to be effective.
5. Lion dung is said to keep them out but it may smell even worse than cats poo, but it's good for the roses.
6. Small sticks pushed into the ground so that approximately six to 12 inches are sticking out of the ground like spikes. They must be close enough together to prevent cats snuggling their bottoms down between them to poo.
7. Get a dog.
8. Some say Jeyes disinfectant fluid around the edges of the garden works but the fluid is actually quite poisonous to cats and will kill them in fairly small amounts.
9. Spray water at them, not from a hose, from one of those spray bottles from a garden centre or use or a super-soaking water gun for cats further away.
10. I have heard that they don't like garlic.
11. A friend suggested moth balls worked for her.
12. Sprinkle black pepper & chilli around the garden, harmless to animals but an effective deterrent apparently.
13. Getting a cat yourself often works. Its very unusual for a cat to poop in its own garden, and other cats won't really come near another cats area, unless it likes them, and then it wont poop 'cos it respects the area!
14. Catch the cat and rub its nose in it (not so it smudges all over the cat, just near it) then put the cat in next doors garden, or wherever you wish it to poop from now on.
15. You can buy some pet repellent spray from the DIY stores. It is harmless to animals and children.
16. Solid toilet blocks (used in public loos usually) crumbled around.
17. Scatter citrus peel (oranges & lemons) around the garden.
18. Place pine cones around near garden borders.
19. Plant geraniums, marigolds and petunias, cats apparently dislike those plants.
20. Grow spiky plants near areas you want to keep cats away from.
21. Ask local cat owners to provide an inside litter tray for their cats to discourage outside toileting.
22. Or if the cat owner doesn't want/can't have inside trays...Ask them to dig a pit in their garden, several feet deep and 2 foot square and fill with peat. Then all that is needed is for this outside toilet to be dug over frequently.
23. If you have bare soil cover it with gravel or slate chippings etc, it will discourage digging.
24. Keep your lawn short. If you let your lawn get to 3" ish high, they will poo in it and not bury it.
25. Place a small length of hosepipe in amongst your plants, cats and birds don't like snakes!
26. Invest in a bag of coffee (grounds), and spread around the garden.
27. Plant some lavender. It works for some and smells divine and for some reason the cats hate it.
28. Olbas oil (the one you put on pillows for blocked noses) works pretty well.
29. Water 'Scarecrow' that squirts water at things it detects moving, including you!
30. If all the foregoing makes you despair then go the high-tech route and buy yourself an ultrasonic cat repeller.
They have a motion detector built-in, can be mains powered and emit a high decibel tone that only cats can here. Problem solved.
I use one at my house and found it excellent. Didn't hear any noises from it and it didn't bother the dogs next door either. I'd recommend the mains powered one rather than using batteries, they never seem to last for very long, but battery power does give more flexibility.
It has a PIR which means that it is only emitting 'noise' while the cat is in range so the cat cannot 'learn' to tolerate it. This also saves batteries (if you use them). There is an alternative of purchasing a mains connector if the battery option doesn't work out well.
They only activate when a large enough object passes by, humans included , and only go for a short time so small mammals are OK. There has been no reduction in bat activity where we live and no signs of them being mis-directed either.
The cat repeller is fantastic. Not a single cat in the garden at the moment, and when they appear they skulk along the wall and don't stay. I really recommend this investment.
If you are bothered by cats coming into your garden and doing their business, or scaring your birds away first read these 30 tips, the last one really works CLICK HERE
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_171947_27.html
The History of the Domestic Cat
Author: Andrew McGregor
Archaeologists have estimated that the ancestors of cats date back to 200 million years ago. The ancestors of cats are a group of meat eating animals that include the tiger, panther, leopard, lion and cheetah, all of these being skilful hunters. These animals all fit into the 'felius catus' family. They have extraordinary senses including hearing, sight and smell which are up to 10 times better than human senses. Scientists estimate that the domestic cat that we know today have been around for roughly 2 million years.
No one knows for sure, but most people believe that the Egyptians were the first ones to tame the wild cat in around 3500bc. These tamed cats were not just pets but were used to protect farms and gainery's from being over-run by pests including mice, rats, cockroaches and snakes and any other animals that were harmful to their grains. About 2000 years later the domestic cats were considered sacred and were worshiped by the people of Egypt. Laws were made against harming cats and anyone who did were executed. At one point they were considered above royalty and the pharaoh. When a cat died the family that owned it shaved of their eyebrows as a symbolic of the person's mourning. The family then went to a sacred ceremony where the cat was mummified and placed in a temple or a tomb. There were eventually more cat mummies than human mummies around Egypt and archaeologists found a single tomb containing more than 250 000 cat mummies.
Cats were honoured in paintings, sculptures and scriptures in temples, tombs and pyramids made by the people of Egypt. Many of the upper-class Egyptians owned pet cats, but poorer people could not afford to own one but if they owned a farm or grainy it would protect their crops and grains.
Because cats were skilful hunters many people wanted them to kill pests that lived in their homes. Egyptian law stated that it was strictly forbidden to export cats to neighbouring countries. Historians believe that unlawful traders brought the tamed cat to countries such as the Middle East and Europe. Gradually people wanted cats into their homes and into their local community. The domestic cat spread all over Asia and eventually to nearly everywhere people lived. At one point during the Middle Ages people were suspicious that cats were associated with witchcraft and the devil. For this reason people started to kill cats all over Europe, anyone who owned a cat was thought to be practising witchcraft and was killed. There were no cats to kill mice, rats and other pests, they started to take over; people became very sick and died because of the deadly diseases that they carried. About one quarter of Europe's population died because of this. People eventually changed their mind, cats became popular again and people accepted cats back into their homes.
Today cats are the second most popular pet, with dogs being first. Today, 1/5 of households own a cat. They are popular because they are one of the easiest pets to look after and because of their loyalty, affection and playfulness. There are many different breeds today but there are 36 main pure breeds.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_79087_54.html
Archaeologists have estimated that the ancestors of cats date back to 200 million years ago. The ancestors of cats are a group of meat eating animals that include the tiger, panther, leopard, lion and cheetah, all of these being skilful hunters. These animals all fit into the 'felius catus' family. They have extraordinary senses including hearing, sight and smell which are up to 10 times better than human senses. Scientists estimate that the domestic cat that we know today have been around for roughly 2 million years.
No one knows for sure, but most people believe that the Egyptians were the first ones to tame the wild cat in around 3500bc. These tamed cats were not just pets but were used to protect farms and gainery's from being over-run by pests including mice, rats, cockroaches and snakes and any other animals that were harmful to their grains. About 2000 years later the domestic cats were considered sacred and were worshiped by the people of Egypt. Laws were made against harming cats and anyone who did were executed. At one point they were considered above royalty and the pharaoh. When a cat died the family that owned it shaved of their eyebrows as a symbolic of the person's mourning. The family then went to a sacred ceremony where the cat was mummified and placed in a temple or a tomb. There were eventually more cat mummies than human mummies around Egypt and archaeologists found a single tomb containing more than 250 000 cat mummies.
Cats were honoured in paintings, sculptures and scriptures in temples, tombs and pyramids made by the people of Egypt. Many of the upper-class Egyptians owned pet cats, but poorer people could not afford to own one but if they owned a farm or grainy it would protect their crops and grains.
Because cats were skilful hunters many people wanted them to kill pests that lived in their homes. Egyptian law stated that it was strictly forbidden to export cats to neighbouring countries. Historians believe that unlawful traders brought the tamed cat to countries such as the Middle East and Europe. Gradually people wanted cats into their homes and into their local community. The domestic cat spread all over Asia and eventually to nearly everywhere people lived. At one point during the Middle Ages people were suspicious that cats were associated with witchcraft and the devil. For this reason people started to kill cats all over Europe, anyone who owned a cat was thought to be practising witchcraft and was killed. There were no cats to kill mice, rats and other pests, they started to take over; people became very sick and died because of the deadly diseases that they carried. About one quarter of Europe's population died because of this. People eventually changed their mind, cats became popular again and people accepted cats back into their homes.
Today cats are the second most popular pet, with dogs being first. Today, 1/5 of households own a cat. They are popular because they are one of the easiest pets to look after and because of their loyalty, affection and playfulness. There are many different breeds today but there are 36 main pure breeds.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_79087_54.html
Protect Your Cat With Vaccinations
Author: Ron King
If you want to enjoy the companionship of a healthy and happy cat, 1 of the most important things you can do is to safeguard its health. Vaccinations can protect your cat from many common cat diseases.
Weaned From Mother's Immunity
When your kitten is 6 to 8 weeks old, you should begin his vaccinations. Before this time, the mother's antibodies have been protecting him. Once he is weaned, however, he will need to develop antibodies of his own.
The Vital First Visit
The first office visit is when your veterinarian will give your kitten a complete physical examination. A fecal exam is normally done to assure that your kitten doesn't have worms. Prior to vaccinations, your veterinarian should do a blood test to be sure the kitten is not already infected with Feline Leukemia. The vet may also test for Feline Infectious Peritonitis. These tests are quick, and your veterinarian will have preliminary results in minutes.
If your kitten is not already infected with 1 of these diseases, the vet will give your kitten his first Feline Leukemia and FIP vaccines, assuming if he is at risk for these diseases. An only cat who never leaves home may not need these vaccines, in which case your veterinarian may recommend against giving them.
Whether he leaves the house or not, your kitten should receive his first FVRCPC vaccine. This combination vaccine protects kittens from rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia and chlamydia.
Follow-Up Vaccines And Worming
Within 2 to 4 weeks your kitten should visit the veterinarian again, at the age of 8 to 12 weeks. This time he will get a second round of shots for FVRCPC, Feline Leukemia, and FIP. If your kitten was wormed during his first visit, the vet will give him his second worming. If your kitten is at least 12 weeks old and spends time outdoors, he should also receive his first Rabies vaccine.
Your kitten's third visit to the veterinarian takes place when he is 10 to 16 weeks old, when he will receive his third FVRCPC vaccine. Kittens who were too young for their first Rabies vaccine on their previous visit will receive it at this time.
The First Birthday Visit
After completing his third set of FVRCPC vaccines, your kitten will not need any more injections until he is 1 year old. At that time he will need Rabies and FVRCPC booster shots. If the Rabies shot is given to your cat within 1 year of his first Rabies vaccine, it will be good for 3 years. Your cat will need to return each year, however, for the FVRCPC vaccine. When your cat is 1 year of age, he will also receive boosters for FIP and Feline Leukemia if he received these vaccines as a kitten.
Rare Side Effects
Most of the time vaccines are quite safe, yet occasionally side effects can occur. Vaccines for Feline Leukemia can sometimes cause a form of cancer at the site of the injection. For this reason veterinarians usually do not recommend the vaccine for cats who are not at risk. A tumor can sometimes occur at the site of other vaccinations, as well. This type of tumor can often be removed before it spreads. Should you notice a lump developing at the injection site, call your veterinarian without delay. These lumps usually are a simple allergic reaction to the injection, but a lump can develop into a tumor, which, if caught early, can be successfully removed.
The risk of catching a disease without vaccinations is much higher than the risk of side effects. Just as with humans, shots are an unpleasant, but necessary part of growing up healthy.
Visit New Cat to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_15447_54.html
If you want to enjoy the companionship of a healthy and happy cat, 1 of the most important things you can do is to safeguard its health. Vaccinations can protect your cat from many common cat diseases.
Weaned From Mother's Immunity
When your kitten is 6 to 8 weeks old, you should begin his vaccinations. Before this time, the mother's antibodies have been protecting him. Once he is weaned, however, he will need to develop antibodies of his own.
The Vital First Visit
The first office visit is when your veterinarian will give your kitten a complete physical examination. A fecal exam is normally done to assure that your kitten doesn't have worms. Prior to vaccinations, your veterinarian should do a blood test to be sure the kitten is not already infected with Feline Leukemia. The vet may also test for Feline Infectious Peritonitis. These tests are quick, and your veterinarian will have preliminary results in minutes.
If your kitten is not already infected with 1 of these diseases, the vet will give your kitten his first Feline Leukemia and FIP vaccines, assuming if he is at risk for these diseases. An only cat who never leaves home may not need these vaccines, in which case your veterinarian may recommend against giving them.
Whether he leaves the house or not, your kitten should receive his first FVRCPC vaccine. This combination vaccine protects kittens from rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia and chlamydia.
Follow-Up Vaccines And Worming
Within 2 to 4 weeks your kitten should visit the veterinarian again, at the age of 8 to 12 weeks. This time he will get a second round of shots for FVRCPC, Feline Leukemia, and FIP. If your kitten was wormed during his first visit, the vet will give him his second worming. If your kitten is at least 12 weeks old and spends time outdoors, he should also receive his first Rabies vaccine.
Your kitten's third visit to the veterinarian takes place when he is 10 to 16 weeks old, when he will receive his third FVRCPC vaccine. Kittens who were too young for their first Rabies vaccine on their previous visit will receive it at this time.
The First Birthday Visit
After completing his third set of FVRCPC vaccines, your kitten will not need any more injections until he is 1 year old. At that time he will need Rabies and FVRCPC booster shots. If the Rabies shot is given to your cat within 1 year of his first Rabies vaccine, it will be good for 3 years. Your cat will need to return each year, however, for the FVRCPC vaccine. When your cat is 1 year of age, he will also receive boosters for FIP and Feline Leukemia if he received these vaccines as a kitten.
Rare Side Effects
Most of the time vaccines are quite safe, yet occasionally side effects can occur. Vaccines for Feline Leukemia can sometimes cause a form of cancer at the site of the injection. For this reason veterinarians usually do not recommend the vaccine for cats who are not at risk. A tumor can sometimes occur at the site of other vaccinations, as well. This type of tumor can often be removed before it spreads. Should you notice a lump developing at the injection site, call your veterinarian without delay. These lumps usually are a simple allergic reaction to the injection, but a lump can develop into a tumor, which, if caught early, can be successfully removed.
The risk of catching a disease without vaccinations is much higher than the risk of side effects. Just as with humans, shots are an unpleasant, but necessary part of growing up healthy.
Visit New Cat to learn more. Copyright 2005 Ron King. Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
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