The mouth of an adult cat comprises of 15 teeth. Majority of them are tiny. Compared to the other teeth, the canines are the biggest in terms of size, edge and length. Cats catch and grasp their food with these fangs. They use canines to shred their prey into pieces.
Cats possess extremely specialized teeth used for shredding of meat. The first premolar and molar comprise the carnassials pair, present on both the sides of the cat's mouth. This pair functions effectively to tear meat and thus acts as scissor. Canids also possess them, but they are highly evolved in felines. In addition, papillae or razor sharp spines are present on its tongue. These spines are beneficial for retaining and tearing the flesh of a prey. The tiny keratin having backward facing hooks also help in the grooming of a cat.
A cat uses different types of phonations for communication, because of its oral mouth structure.
Ears:
A cat can direct its hearing since it possesses single muscles in both the ears. The movements of both the ears are independent of each other. Most cats possess straight ears directed upwards. Some cats also have folded ears called Scottish Folds. Other cats have curled ears that resemble the Highlanders. Such ears are due to genetic mutation.
Cats use ears as a source of expression when they are scared or angry. They lay their ears back accompanied by hissing or growling voices. This is regarded as a caution from the cat. At times, when cats are playing, they turn their ears back to hear something behind them. One can effectively interpret a cat's mood by observing its ears.
Legs:
Cats walk on their toes directly and hence are digitigrades. Each hind paw of a cat is placed almost accurately in the mark of the comparable forepaw, thus reducing sound and visible tracks. This method of walking is termed as register. Cats are less likely to lose their feet even on bumpy terrain.
Many animals move their legs alternately while walking. Cats on the other hand move both their legs in one direction and vice versa while walking. This manner of walking is similar to camels, giraffes, pacer horses and so on. There are not many reasons available to explain this.
All members belonging to the cat family possess retractable claws. In relaxed state, the retractable claws are covered with skin and fur. In a wild cat, this keeps its claws razor sharp despite continual contact with ground. Sheathing of the claws also enables a cat to follow its prey. The forefoot claws are considerably sharper than the hind feet claws. Cats draw out their claws in self-defense, to eat something, and so on. Sometimes, a cat will willingly extend its claw for nail clipping, thus co-operating with a human.
Many felines possess five claws and five or four claws on their front and rear paw respectively. At times, there is a protrusion called a sixth finger. This is called the carpal pad. It functions as an anti-skidding feature.
By: Martin Marks
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
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Stop Cats Jumping On Counters
EEEEK! There he goes again, up on the counter, the fridge, the table, the top of the cupboards and no matter what you've tried so far, nothing works. Don't you just love cats? I mean seriously, they can go wherever they want to, jump as high as they need and can give you that "HA on YOU" look when they're up where they're not supposed to be. You've seen that look, the one that says clearly you've lost your marbles because you're having a fit about them being up on things. The cat on the other hand doesn't see it as being a problem. No kidding!
What can you do? There are a variety of things you can try, but to be honest, many of them work for the short term only and you have to keep reinforcing them. This isn't to say you shouldn't do them, it's a flag saying, you will have to do this more than just once. Cats are not only smart, they're very persistent and if they hopped up on the counter just once and found a treat, they will keep doing it because it paid off for them the first time. Now if you also have a Jack Russell Terrier who likes to climb on the counters – yes ON the counters via the large dog kennel for the Weimaraner, to do the same thing the cats do, then you have a doggedly different problem. However, the solutions may be the same.
The first thing to keep in mind is that cats don't understand punishment of any sort from you the same way a dog does. It just makes them shy of you and smart enough to do the offending behavior when you’re not around. How clever is that anyhow? So you want to actually condition the cat by using the environment around them. That will mean doing things that the cat doesn't associate with you.
Keep the counters clean. If you have empty bowls of yesterday's supper (chicken and rice with sauce) left on the top, guess who will be sticking their nose into it and licking the bowl. Well it won't be your children. So the lesson here is remove all temptations from out of reach of sneaky feet. If it means stashing the goodies in plastic containers, the fridge and in cupboards they can't open or in heavy metal containers, do it. That refers to their goodies. Your goodies you can keep the usual way, but out of the reach of curious paws.
Now speaking of training through the environment. You want something you can use that the cat will not associate with you right? Well, find yourself a squirt gun. Not the big ones that shoot out streams like Victoria Falls, but a light stream. Shoot from a distance and refrain from saying anything like "Ha, got cha!" Most cats don't associate a stream of water with the owner having this weird object in their hands. Will this keep them off the table when you are not home? Maybe yes, maybe no, but you won't know since you aren't there. So this calls for different measures.
Try booby-trapping your counter, and there are several ways to do this as well. One involves loud pop cans with pennies in them. Line them up on the edge of the counter. When your cat jumps up, the cans clatter down around them. Cats hate loud noises and this will keep their feet on the ground for a few days. For this method of be effective you need to do this consistently. Of course there is always the odd puss or two who could care less that they just knocked 6 or 7 noisy objects off the counter. In fact, some just snicker at the prospect of the owner coming home to – 6 cans on the floor and all the pennies scattered under the fridge. (Kidding – you actually tape the holes shut!) At best this crashing clatter will startle them, but will it deter them in the long run? Only time and consistency will tell.
Another home-style remedy for counter surfing is the upside down mousetrap. This idea really would give most owners the collywobbles in case the trap flipped over and nabbed the cat's foot. However, some say it's effective if done the right way. You decide if you want to try this or not. You simply put a mousetrap upside down on the counter, and when the cat lands in the middle of the traps, they'll snap shut and scare him off the counter. Right - watch them land in the only bare spot you have left! Seriously, this method may work with some cats, but it's best to try this only if you are home to rescue your cat if need be.
Speaking of things that "jump up" there is a unique contraption on the market called the Jumpo that might be a better alternative than mousetraps. It's a small wing like contraption that when triggered, jumps up making a clattering noise as it flies into the air. It does not have the risks associated with it that a triggered mousetrap may have.
Try double sided sticky tape on your counters and table. But first make sure it won't stick too badly to your table surface or leave too much glue on the counters. Cats really despise walking on things that grab and stick. Running across this tape would really make them unhappy. Would it keep them off the counter permanently? Depends on how long you want to keep tape on your counters and table.
Tin foil has been known to work because felines they don't like the sound of the crinkling when they land on it. Mind you, we've seen smarty-pants cats go UNDER the foil and explore like it was a tunnel.
There is also a spray you put on your furniture. It's called "No Stay", made by a company called Pet Organics. It's got garlic oil and clove oil in it, but has no smell to humans. As soon as your cat gets on the furniture they would jump right down again. This isn't a smell they like. Usually after about a week they quit jumping up at all.
The best method we could find that will work while you are at home and when you are gone is the SSSCAT. This is a great little device that sprays a harmless, odorless gas from a small container when the cat is within 1 meter of it. The cat's motion triggers the battery operated spray container. It's economical and non-staining, and you can get about 150 sprays out of one can. It usually doesn't take that long for the cat to "get it" though. For more information on SSSCAT go here check out there site.
And don't forget to try out the ScatMat. It lets go with a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. All your cat does is walks across it and small pulses of electricity move emitting a little "zap". Your cat will learn to stay away from those areas. For more information on this product go here check out safe product.
By: adammck
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
If you have enjoyed this article about dealing with jumping cats then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com for lots more free articles and information.
What can you do? There are a variety of things you can try, but to be honest, many of them work for the short term only and you have to keep reinforcing them. This isn't to say you shouldn't do them, it's a flag saying, you will have to do this more than just once. Cats are not only smart, they're very persistent and if they hopped up on the counter just once and found a treat, they will keep doing it because it paid off for them the first time. Now if you also have a Jack Russell Terrier who likes to climb on the counters – yes ON the counters via the large dog kennel for the Weimaraner, to do the same thing the cats do, then you have a doggedly different problem. However, the solutions may be the same.
The first thing to keep in mind is that cats don't understand punishment of any sort from you the same way a dog does. It just makes them shy of you and smart enough to do the offending behavior when you’re not around. How clever is that anyhow? So you want to actually condition the cat by using the environment around them. That will mean doing things that the cat doesn't associate with you.
Keep the counters clean. If you have empty bowls of yesterday's supper (chicken and rice with sauce) left on the top, guess who will be sticking their nose into it and licking the bowl. Well it won't be your children. So the lesson here is remove all temptations from out of reach of sneaky feet. If it means stashing the goodies in plastic containers, the fridge and in cupboards they can't open or in heavy metal containers, do it. That refers to their goodies. Your goodies you can keep the usual way, but out of the reach of curious paws.
Now speaking of training through the environment. You want something you can use that the cat will not associate with you right? Well, find yourself a squirt gun. Not the big ones that shoot out streams like Victoria Falls, but a light stream. Shoot from a distance and refrain from saying anything like "Ha, got cha!" Most cats don't associate a stream of water with the owner having this weird object in their hands. Will this keep them off the table when you are not home? Maybe yes, maybe no, but you won't know since you aren't there. So this calls for different measures.
Try booby-trapping your counter, and there are several ways to do this as well. One involves loud pop cans with pennies in them. Line them up on the edge of the counter. When your cat jumps up, the cans clatter down around them. Cats hate loud noises and this will keep their feet on the ground for a few days. For this method of be effective you need to do this consistently. Of course there is always the odd puss or two who could care less that they just knocked 6 or 7 noisy objects off the counter. In fact, some just snicker at the prospect of the owner coming home to – 6 cans on the floor and all the pennies scattered under the fridge. (Kidding – you actually tape the holes shut!) At best this crashing clatter will startle them, but will it deter them in the long run? Only time and consistency will tell.
Another home-style remedy for counter surfing is the upside down mousetrap. This idea really would give most owners the collywobbles in case the trap flipped over and nabbed the cat's foot. However, some say it's effective if done the right way. You decide if you want to try this or not. You simply put a mousetrap upside down on the counter, and when the cat lands in the middle of the traps, they'll snap shut and scare him off the counter. Right - watch them land in the only bare spot you have left! Seriously, this method may work with some cats, but it's best to try this only if you are home to rescue your cat if need be.
Speaking of things that "jump up" there is a unique contraption on the market called the Jumpo that might be a better alternative than mousetraps. It's a small wing like contraption that when triggered, jumps up making a clattering noise as it flies into the air. It does not have the risks associated with it that a triggered mousetrap may have.
Try double sided sticky tape on your counters and table. But first make sure it won't stick too badly to your table surface or leave too much glue on the counters. Cats really despise walking on things that grab and stick. Running across this tape would really make them unhappy. Would it keep them off the counter permanently? Depends on how long you want to keep tape on your counters and table.
Tin foil has been known to work because felines they don't like the sound of the crinkling when they land on it. Mind you, we've seen smarty-pants cats go UNDER the foil and explore like it was a tunnel.
There is also a spray you put on your furniture. It's called "No Stay", made by a company called Pet Organics. It's got garlic oil and clove oil in it, but has no smell to humans. As soon as your cat gets on the furniture they would jump right down again. This isn't a smell they like. Usually after about a week they quit jumping up at all.
The best method we could find that will work while you are at home and when you are gone is the SSSCAT. This is a great little device that sprays a harmless, odorless gas from a small container when the cat is within 1 meter of it. The cat's motion triggers the battery operated spray container. It's economical and non-staining, and you can get about 150 sprays out of one can. It usually doesn't take that long for the cat to "get it" though. For more information on SSSCAT go here check out there site.
And don't forget to try out the ScatMat. It lets go with a harmless static pulse when your cat touches it. All your cat does is walks across it and small pulses of electricity move emitting a little "zap". Your cat will learn to stay away from those areas. For more information on this product go here check out safe product.
By: adammck
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
If you have enjoyed this article about dealing with jumping cats then please feel free to reprint it as it is. This resource box must be included with the article. Please visit my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com for lots more free articles and information.
The Bite That Hurts - Coping With Cat Aggression
Talk about thorny problems – or rather pointed (cat's claws and teeth) problems. Did you know this is the second highest ranking problem that drives cat owners to the vet for solutions? The first one is inappropriate elimination in the house. If your cat came with manuals, this might be a lot easier to deal with. However, cats don't come with manuals, and the other thing is, even if they did, they wouldn’t read them anyway.
So what do you do? That's the $64 million dollar question. It's well documented that aggression is usually "acquired" in one of two ways – early experiences in life and genetics, with genetics playing the lead role. You might be able to live with your cat's quirks (I mean really, they live with ours!) but cat bites and scratches hurt like the dickens and can cause infections.
Yes, cats are considered pets, but by nature they are hunters and stalkers with the teeth and claws to back that point up. No matter how pampered your Maine Coon Cat is, they will still lie in wait, stalk and pounce. That's just the way it is! You've seen them rip about your house batting and pouncing on anything that moves, including the dog's wagging tail (which sets the dog off too). In the world of a small kitten, and at times older cats, anything that looks like it might be "prey" is worth hunting. It's a great blast playing hunt! However, if you decide to encourage this kind of behavior, beware! It can and will get out of hand.
Kittens usually have littermates to test their boundaries. If one of them gets out of line, they get an attitude adjustment from the kitten they just peed off, or Mom steps in and reads them the riot act. If a kitten is adopted out too early, this rough play transfers to the owner. Owners don’t always let the cat know what's out of line and what isn't. Likely under the mistaken impression that it's "just" harmless play and you can't discipline a cat like a dog.
There's a difference between harmless kitten/cat carousing and aggressive play. Just look at your kitten/cat and you will know the signs right away – highly exaggerated postures, the "crouch", ears flattened, dilated pupils and that wicked switching tail. What to do? Re-direct the kitten's/cat's behavior if you like by clapping your hands loudly or making some other ruckus that startles them.
Frankly the easiest solution is to not encourage this acting out by rough housing with them. Refuse to participate and yes, they will grow out of this.
Territory aggression is a bit of a bummer. The racket a cat lets out when another feline comes onto "their" property is horrendous. You can't miss it. It might sound funny, but in terms of staking a claim to a place, a cat is way worse than a dog. This kind of behavior usually starts when they are between 1 and 2 years old. They not only get upset, they get downright bent out of shape at any other cat daring to intrude. It will sometimes take them more than half the day to get their noses out of joint.
Territory aggression is the "hey this spot is mine" kind of clash that happens right in front of you in the house. The hissing, growling and spitting starts, there's usually some fast foot action, a yowl or two and the chase is on. If you interfere you may get bitten, clawed or hissed at. If you do succeed in separating the cats, the instigator may displace his bad mood on the other cats in the house (and sometimes the owner).
There are times when the feline grumbling can escalate into a full rear attack made by the more dominant member of the pack. The submissive cat gets tail and loin injuries. When in that spot they usually retaliate and spray the house to get their rank in the pack back. You won't always see this coming either because the signals they give each other are really subtle. Although multiple cat households are mostly peaceful because they've all worked out their differences over a period of time, clashes do happen when something causes stress. Turf battles can be loud and ugly. Adding a new cat to the mix without following the "Introduction" protocol will invite a disaster.
What to do with a turf battle? Separate the combatants with gloves, or something to protect your hands. Take them to separate rooms. By the way, if you are returning from the vet, leave the cat in the carrier for an hour before letting it out. Don't punish them past separating them after the battle. Instead withdraw affection for a few days and they'll get the message quickly.
You can also try a product called Feliway. Although it's usually used to stop cats from peeing in the house, it can be used to calm aggression in cats. Don't spray it directly on the cat. Use a cloth of some sort like paper towels, wait until it's not damp then rub the towel on the cat's back and sides of the head. Have lots of super sturdy scratching posts and good pounce toys. Keep nails clipped short.
Aggression directed against humans is more than a bummer. It can be dangerous for both you and the cat. This type of aggression is usually instilled due to improper handling while the cat was a kitten. They will be frightened of people, pin their ears back, curl their tails inward, angle their bodies away from the threat and lash out with claws and bite. The hissy fit usually involves a show of sharp, pointed teeth and their hair may be standing on end.
Really about the only thing you can do in this situation is to make sure kittens are handled gently and appropriately and properly socialized to humans, other cats and dogs. Stroke slowly and gently when kitten is relaxed, and treat with food when you are done. If you're dealing with an adult, then this is more difficult to manage.
Adults can take a long time to overcome fear, but it can be done with patience. Let the cat get hungry then offer its favorite food. Don't approach the cat! Wait until it comes to you. This might not happen for a while but if you act slowly and carefully, with respect, the cat will eventually come around and eat out of your hand. The cat needs to work out its fears in its own good time, pushing it will not help.
Oddly enough, cats also manifest something called redirected aggression as well. What happens is something upsets the cat and instead of taking its aggression out on the cause of their angst, they beat up the owner or another pet. Obviously this would ruin any trust built up between the cat and the other cats and the owner.
The only solution to this is to find and remove what caused the aggression in the first place. If it was another cat, shut the blinds, tear outside and shoo it away. Leave your cat alone until it calms down. Don't try to calm it down or you will likely get bitten for your trouble. Separate the upset cat from the others by putting it into a room by itself and leave the lights off. If you need to, use gloves to pick the upset feline up, or wrap it in a towel. Once calm, reintroduce the cat to the others. This by the way is why cats coming back from the vet get pounced on. The others can smell strange "cat/other animals" on the returning feline.
Aggression related to medical difficulties is another problem to consider. Although this does not happen that frequently, it is something you need to check with your vet. You need to check with a vet when the aggression happens literally out of the blue.
Handle the cat with care and make sure it remains in the carrier until the vet is ready for the exam. You'd be ideally asking for a complete exam and x-rays to rule out a problem. The exam may catch arthritis, which is painful for the cat when handled. There may a neurological problem. Take the time to find out what ails your cat. It will make life easier.
There are a number of possible medical solutions to problems your cat may have. It of course depends on the diagnosis, which could be anything from arthritis to "ghost" pains or epilepsy to "dry" feline infectious peritonitis (terminal). Work with your vet and cat to get the best medication possible to help them.
Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde at times take up residence in your cat (petting aggression). While petting them they suddenly whirl and bite you. Hmmm, they wanted up on your lap in the first place! What's up with that?
What's up with that is that some cats have a low tolerance for affection. So at the first signs they're getting peed – restlessness, twitching tail, flat ears that are twitching and moving its head toward you hand – release the cat. You can try handing them a yummy fish treat just before you think they might attack, but this is a little like trying to guess the winning numbers in the lottery.
There are other forms of aggression such as dominance aggression and maternal aggression. Both display the classic signs of a perturbed puss that we have already discussed in this article. Yes there are drugs you can try that range from Valium to Acepromazine (tranquilizers) and from antihistamines to amytriptyline. The bottom line is really this: do you want your cat on drugs? Will it help them curb the aggression? Tough questions that only you, in consultation with your vet, can make up your mind about.
By: adammck
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
You can visit me at World of Maine Coon Cats where you will find many more articles and a wealth of free information, including a free book. Pay a visit to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.
So what do you do? That's the $64 million dollar question. It's well documented that aggression is usually "acquired" in one of two ways – early experiences in life and genetics, with genetics playing the lead role. You might be able to live with your cat's quirks (I mean really, they live with ours!) but cat bites and scratches hurt like the dickens and can cause infections.
Yes, cats are considered pets, but by nature they are hunters and stalkers with the teeth and claws to back that point up. No matter how pampered your Maine Coon Cat is, they will still lie in wait, stalk and pounce. That's just the way it is! You've seen them rip about your house batting and pouncing on anything that moves, including the dog's wagging tail (which sets the dog off too). In the world of a small kitten, and at times older cats, anything that looks like it might be "prey" is worth hunting. It's a great blast playing hunt! However, if you decide to encourage this kind of behavior, beware! It can and will get out of hand.
Kittens usually have littermates to test their boundaries. If one of them gets out of line, they get an attitude adjustment from the kitten they just peed off, or Mom steps in and reads them the riot act. If a kitten is adopted out too early, this rough play transfers to the owner. Owners don’t always let the cat know what's out of line and what isn't. Likely under the mistaken impression that it's "just" harmless play and you can't discipline a cat like a dog.
There's a difference between harmless kitten/cat carousing and aggressive play. Just look at your kitten/cat and you will know the signs right away – highly exaggerated postures, the "crouch", ears flattened, dilated pupils and that wicked switching tail. What to do? Re-direct the kitten's/cat's behavior if you like by clapping your hands loudly or making some other ruckus that startles them.
Frankly the easiest solution is to not encourage this acting out by rough housing with them. Refuse to participate and yes, they will grow out of this.
Territory aggression is a bit of a bummer. The racket a cat lets out when another feline comes onto "their" property is horrendous. You can't miss it. It might sound funny, but in terms of staking a claim to a place, a cat is way worse than a dog. This kind of behavior usually starts when they are between 1 and 2 years old. They not only get upset, they get downright bent out of shape at any other cat daring to intrude. It will sometimes take them more than half the day to get their noses out of joint.
Territory aggression is the "hey this spot is mine" kind of clash that happens right in front of you in the house. The hissing, growling and spitting starts, there's usually some fast foot action, a yowl or two and the chase is on. If you interfere you may get bitten, clawed or hissed at. If you do succeed in separating the cats, the instigator may displace his bad mood on the other cats in the house (and sometimes the owner).
There are times when the feline grumbling can escalate into a full rear attack made by the more dominant member of the pack. The submissive cat gets tail and loin injuries. When in that spot they usually retaliate and spray the house to get their rank in the pack back. You won't always see this coming either because the signals they give each other are really subtle. Although multiple cat households are mostly peaceful because they've all worked out their differences over a period of time, clashes do happen when something causes stress. Turf battles can be loud and ugly. Adding a new cat to the mix without following the "Introduction" protocol will invite a disaster.
What to do with a turf battle? Separate the combatants with gloves, or something to protect your hands. Take them to separate rooms. By the way, if you are returning from the vet, leave the cat in the carrier for an hour before letting it out. Don't punish them past separating them after the battle. Instead withdraw affection for a few days and they'll get the message quickly.
You can also try a product called Feliway. Although it's usually used to stop cats from peeing in the house, it can be used to calm aggression in cats. Don't spray it directly on the cat. Use a cloth of some sort like paper towels, wait until it's not damp then rub the towel on the cat's back and sides of the head. Have lots of super sturdy scratching posts and good pounce toys. Keep nails clipped short.
Aggression directed against humans is more than a bummer. It can be dangerous for both you and the cat. This type of aggression is usually instilled due to improper handling while the cat was a kitten. They will be frightened of people, pin their ears back, curl their tails inward, angle their bodies away from the threat and lash out with claws and bite. The hissy fit usually involves a show of sharp, pointed teeth and their hair may be standing on end.
Really about the only thing you can do in this situation is to make sure kittens are handled gently and appropriately and properly socialized to humans, other cats and dogs. Stroke slowly and gently when kitten is relaxed, and treat with food when you are done. If you're dealing with an adult, then this is more difficult to manage.
Adults can take a long time to overcome fear, but it can be done with patience. Let the cat get hungry then offer its favorite food. Don't approach the cat! Wait until it comes to you. This might not happen for a while but if you act slowly and carefully, with respect, the cat will eventually come around and eat out of your hand. The cat needs to work out its fears in its own good time, pushing it will not help.
Oddly enough, cats also manifest something called redirected aggression as well. What happens is something upsets the cat and instead of taking its aggression out on the cause of their angst, they beat up the owner or another pet. Obviously this would ruin any trust built up between the cat and the other cats and the owner.
The only solution to this is to find and remove what caused the aggression in the first place. If it was another cat, shut the blinds, tear outside and shoo it away. Leave your cat alone until it calms down. Don't try to calm it down or you will likely get bitten for your trouble. Separate the upset cat from the others by putting it into a room by itself and leave the lights off. If you need to, use gloves to pick the upset feline up, or wrap it in a towel. Once calm, reintroduce the cat to the others. This by the way is why cats coming back from the vet get pounced on. The others can smell strange "cat/other animals" on the returning feline.
Aggression related to medical difficulties is another problem to consider. Although this does not happen that frequently, it is something you need to check with your vet. You need to check with a vet when the aggression happens literally out of the blue.
Handle the cat with care and make sure it remains in the carrier until the vet is ready for the exam. You'd be ideally asking for a complete exam and x-rays to rule out a problem. The exam may catch arthritis, which is painful for the cat when handled. There may a neurological problem. Take the time to find out what ails your cat. It will make life easier.
There are a number of possible medical solutions to problems your cat may have. It of course depends on the diagnosis, which could be anything from arthritis to "ghost" pains or epilepsy to "dry" feline infectious peritonitis (terminal). Work with your vet and cat to get the best medication possible to help them.
Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde at times take up residence in your cat (petting aggression). While petting them they suddenly whirl and bite you. Hmmm, they wanted up on your lap in the first place! What's up with that?
What's up with that is that some cats have a low tolerance for affection. So at the first signs they're getting peed – restlessness, twitching tail, flat ears that are twitching and moving its head toward you hand – release the cat. You can try handing them a yummy fish treat just before you think they might attack, but this is a little like trying to guess the winning numbers in the lottery.
There are other forms of aggression such as dominance aggression and maternal aggression. Both display the classic signs of a perturbed puss that we have already discussed in this article. Yes there are drugs you can try that range from Valium to Acepromazine (tranquilizers) and from antihistamines to amytriptyline. The bottom line is really this: do you want your cat on drugs? Will it help them curb the aggression? Tough questions that only you, in consultation with your vet, can make up your mind about.
By: adammck
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
You can visit me at World of Maine Coon Cats where you will find many more articles and a wealth of free information, including a free book. Pay a visit to my blog at www.world-of-maine-coon-cats.blogspot.com.