By: Elyse Grau
Putting some kind of identification on your pet will increase the chances of its being returned to you. This article will outline the types of pet id available and the pros and cons of each.
The most typical form of pet id is the simple collar tag. This is usually metal, but increasingly can be made of plastic or even paper. Metal tags last the longest and resist scratching.
The id tag is attached to the collar, usually using a figure-eight type hook or a double circle. The figure -eight is usually a sturdier connection.
This type of pet identification tag needs to be engraved. You can choose to put whatever you want on the tag. At a minimum the tag should include the animal's name and your phone number. If space allows, it is a good idea to provide at least one additional phone number, such as a cell phone, a neighbor or your vet.
By providing your address as well, the pet can be returned to you by the person finding it. City and state are not necessary; usually the animal is lost close to home. A zip code or area code is useful in case the animal gets loose somewhere farther away.
Temporary ids are made from paper or cardboard, which are then laminated or inserted into a plastic holder. These types of id tags are great for when you are traveling with your pet. Attach them to the collar in addition to the regular id. The temporary id should have the phone number or numbers where you can be reached, perhaps with the dates that you will be at these numbers.
If you want to get really fancy, you can purchase an embroidered collar for your dog or cat in place of the tag. Also, you can order a flat id that is threaded onto the collar. The drawback to this kind of tag is that it is not easily seen, and unless the finder looks for it, he may think the animal does not have a tag. The benefit is that it is unlikely to fall off, unless of course the entire collar is lost.
An even more permanent type of identification is the microchip. This is a relatively new technique that is becoming more and more common. Most animal shelters now automatically chip the animals when they are adopted.
The information embedded in the microchip also resides on the providing company's database, and can be accessed from anywhere in the country. The chip can then be traced back to the purchaser of the chip, not necessarily directly to you.
Since the tag cannot be seen or felt, the animal can also wear a tag that tells people it has been chipped. In order to read the microchip, the dog or cat will need to be brought to a police station, vet's office or animal shelter. Not all chips are compatible with all scanners, although improvements have been made in this area.
Most of the chip manufacturers provide some type of pet recovery service. This is separate from the chip registration. An annual fee is charged. You register your pet with your information. Once the chip has been scanned, you will usually get your pet back within twenty-four hours. There are also independent companies that provide lost-pet services, using any microchip brand.
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Elyse is the founder of The Original Dog Biscuit Company. She has extended knowledge of pet nutrition and feeding, as well as practical experience in the raising of cats, dogs and other animals. She is a herbalist, specializing in animals. Read more of her articles at:
http://www.pethealthresource.com
Breeding Purebred Cats
By: Albert Tang
If you are interested in breeding purebred cats for monetary gains, you have to consider the pros and cons first before going down this road. While the rewards are generous and rewarding, cat breeding is not for all. People have this mistaken perception that cat breeding is as easy as just letting cats mate. In fact it’s just the opposite. While earning money is part of the plan in breeding, it should not be the main motivating factor.
As a cat breeder, you must be responsible for the welfare and well being of your cats. Contingency plan should be in place to cater for unexpected changes. In the even of the owner backing out of a deal, you should have a ready place to keep the cat.
Besides having a sense of responsibility, you should also educate yourself well before going into breeding. Breeding purebred cats requires a great deal of knowledge about the written breed standards and general cat care. You need to find a seasoned mentor to work with, someone who has had prior experience with showing and breeding cats in order to become a successful breeder.
Breeding is also an expensive, time consuming and labor intensive activity, regardless of your chosen breed.
The food isn’t the only thing that’s expensive, as the vet bills can also get expensive. Even though you may go through the entire pregnancy without going to the vet, you’ll still need de-worming and vaccination medicines as well.
Another factor to consider before breeding cats is whether you have enough space for breeding. If you have a small apartment, you shouldn’t attempt to breed a cat.
One last thing to take note is whether your family is agreeable to the idea of breeding cats. If you family objects, it’s going to take a heavy strain on your relationship with your family if you don’t have their understanding and consent.
After learning about these things, it can be concluded that breeding is an arduous task indeed. However, for those who are cat breeders at heart, all these hardships are worth the kittens they bred (not produced)! A cat's life is more important than money. And it is more rewarding to see the kittens grow. The money earned is just an additional reward.
Breeding is not just about having many cats. It is about taking care of all of them.
In short, there are a lot of factors to consider where breeding is concerned. If you have already set your mind on it and you want to breed, you should be certain that you have the proper knowledge and everything you need before hand. You should always be ready to handle anything associated with breeding – and prepare yourself for the worst possible scenario.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
If you are interested in breeding purebred cats for monetary gains, you have to consider the pros and cons first before going down this road. While the rewards are generous and rewarding, cat breeding is not for all. People have this mistaken perception that cat breeding is as easy as just letting cats mate. In fact it’s just the opposite. While earning money is part of the plan in breeding, it should not be the main motivating factor.
As a cat breeder, you must be responsible for the welfare and well being of your cats. Contingency plan should be in place to cater for unexpected changes. In the even of the owner backing out of a deal, you should have a ready place to keep the cat.
Besides having a sense of responsibility, you should also educate yourself well before going into breeding. Breeding purebred cats requires a great deal of knowledge about the written breed standards and general cat care. You need to find a seasoned mentor to work with, someone who has had prior experience with showing and breeding cats in order to become a successful breeder.
Breeding is also an expensive, time consuming and labor intensive activity, regardless of your chosen breed.
The food isn’t the only thing that’s expensive, as the vet bills can also get expensive. Even though you may go through the entire pregnancy without going to the vet, you’ll still need de-worming and vaccination medicines as well.
Another factor to consider before breeding cats is whether you have enough space for breeding. If you have a small apartment, you shouldn’t attempt to breed a cat.
One last thing to take note is whether your family is agreeable to the idea of breeding cats. If you family objects, it’s going to take a heavy strain on your relationship with your family if you don’t have their understanding and consent.
After learning about these things, it can be concluded that breeding is an arduous task indeed. However, for those who are cat breeders at heart, all these hardships are worth the kittens they bred (not produced)! A cat's life is more important than money. And it is more rewarding to see the kittens grow. The money earned is just an additional reward.
Breeding is not just about having many cats. It is about taking care of all of them.
In short, there are a lot of factors to consider where breeding is concerned. If you have already set your mind on it and you want to breed, you should be certain that you have the proper knowledge and everything you need before hand. You should always be ready to handle anything associated with breeding – and prepare yourself for the worst possible scenario.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
You CAN Have Your Cats and Your Furniture Too
By : Kathie Freeman
No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?
Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren't aware that it's not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can't tell you it still hurts.
This doesn't mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of them declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.
1. Give them what they want.
Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.
If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.
Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.
Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.
2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.
Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!
Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.
As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.
3. Trim the claws.
It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.
4. Claw caps.
These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people report good results.
Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousands of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.
copyright 2005
Article Source: http://www.articledestination.com
Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, an exciting feline adventure story. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories and Tails at home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/ This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.
No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?
Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren't aware that it's not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can't tell you it still hurts.
This doesn't mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of them declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.
1. Give them what they want.
Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.
If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.
Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.
Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.
2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.
Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!
Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.
As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.
3. Trim the claws.
It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.
4. Claw caps.
These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people report good results.
Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousands of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.
copyright 2005
Article Source: http://www.articledestination.com
Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, an exciting feline adventure story. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories and Tails at home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/ This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.
Does Your Pet Wear a Cat Flea Collar?
By Tonya Kopp
Do you believe that you are doing the best you can for your pet by buying a cat flea collar for her? I certainly do but have you noticed that most cat flea collars don't seem to work? They don't seem to last for a day let alone the three or four months that they claim they will. I've no idea why this is the case but I can suggest some different ways of dealing with the problem. There is something else that I don't like about cat flea collars, or dog flea collars. They contain poison to kill the fleas. This poison can affect humans by causing irritation or soreness. If these cat collars can do this to humans then they might have a similar effect on your pet and we wouldn't want that would we? So what else can you do about the fleas? You can try a shampoo that is designed to kill fleas, if your cat will let you that is. Personally I've never met a cat that likes getting wet, they turn into teeth and claw monsters, so trying to give her a shampoo is out of the question. Oh and if you do try this, don't expect your cat to talk to you again for the next few days. My vet recommends treating cats with a product that stops the fleas reproducing. You need to apply this substance to the back of your cat's neck every 3 months for it to be effective. You have to remember that this does not kill the fleas but it does stop them multiplying so you should see a reduction in fleas after a few months and you can make this happen a lot quicker if you remove the fleas by combing them out. If you love your cat as much as I love mine then you will find that there is nothing better than a daily use of the flea comb. I find it soothing and a great stress reliever. I think that my cat likes it too even though she will tell me off if I do it for too long. If your cat has a flea problem then you will see them on the comb. The hard part is catching and killing them before they vanish by jumping away. When you catch them you must crush them in between two hard surfaces. Don't forget to treat your carpets and furniture. Fleas will jump off your cat and live in your carpets and furniture until another animal comes along. It's very important that you spray everything with a suitable anti-flea spray. Make sure that you follow the instructions on the label before you use it. So if your pet has fleas then consider using some of the remedies that I've mentioned above before you go out and buy a cat flea collar.
Do you believe that you are doing the best you can for your pet by buying a cat flea collar for her? I certainly do but have you noticed that most cat flea collars don't seem to work? They don't seem to last for a day let alone the three or four months that they claim they will. I've no idea why this is the case but I can suggest some different ways of dealing with the problem. There is something else that I don't like about cat flea collars, or dog flea collars. They contain poison to kill the fleas. This poison can affect humans by causing irritation or soreness. If these cat collars can do this to humans then they might have a similar effect on your pet and we wouldn't want that would we? So what else can you do about the fleas? You can try a shampoo that is designed to kill fleas, if your cat will let you that is. Personally I've never met a cat that likes getting wet, they turn into teeth and claw monsters, so trying to give her a shampoo is out of the question. Oh and if you do try this, don't expect your cat to talk to you again for the next few days. My vet recommends treating cats with a product that stops the fleas reproducing. You need to apply this substance to the back of your cat's neck every 3 months for it to be effective. You have to remember that this does not kill the fleas but it does stop them multiplying so you should see a reduction in fleas after a few months and you can make this happen a lot quicker if you remove the fleas by combing them out. If you love your cat as much as I love mine then you will find that there is nothing better than a daily use of the flea comb. I find it soothing and a great stress reliever. I think that my cat likes it too even though she will tell me off if I do it for too long. If your cat has a flea problem then you will see them on the comb. The hard part is catching and killing them before they vanish by jumping away. When you catch them you must crush them in between two hard surfaces. Don't forget to treat your carpets and furniture. Fleas will jump off your cat and live in your carpets and furniture until another animal comes along. It's very important that you spray everything with a suitable anti-flea spray. Make sure that you follow the instructions on the label before you use it. So if your pet has fleas then consider using some of the remedies that I've mentioned above before you go out and buy a cat flea collar.
Classic Cat Cons: The Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter
By: Marissa Hawke
Global Warming has been the subject of worldwide debate among the top scientists and researchers together with the major players of the automotive industry. At the center of the topic: toxic chemicals that emit out of the automotive engine and the devices that can reduce the pollutants.
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is the byproduct of the incomplete combustion of carbon-containing compounds, notably in internal combustion engines. It is a significantly toxic gas and is the most common type of fatal poisoning in many countries. When inhaled in huge proportions, typical reactions include headaches, dizziness and tiredness On the other hand, severe symptoms are fainting and a possible fatal coma. Carbon monoxide induced from automobile and industrial emissions greatly contribute to the greenhouse effect and to global warming. Climate researchers are warning that efforts to reduce air pollution could, if not well designed, make global warming worse.
The leading car manufacturers of today have considered redesigning their vehicles with highly efficient “environmental” devices that help reduce toxic emissions. First introduced on series production automobiles in the United States since the late 70's, catalytic converters were used to reduce the toxicity of emissions from engines. There are actually two types of converters, the three-way and the two-way cat con.
A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks. First it reduces nitrogen oxides back to nitrogen and oxygen. Second, it oxidizes carbon monoxide to a less harmful carbon dioxide. Third, it oxidizes unburnt carcinogenic hydrocarbons that acts as agents that tends to produce cancer. On the other hand, two-way cat cons combines water to both carbon dioxide and carcinogenic hydrocarbons to decrease their damaging nature.
Found in many cars that were produced within the last two decades, cat cons became the automotive industry's answer to air pollution and global warming. The Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter are considered to be classic cat cons that were very efficient in its functionality. The environmental organization's message to car owners is this. If you happen to own definitive car models like the ones above, replacing the old cat cons with the Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter are the best contribution one can give to environmental causes.
Article Source: http://www.articleonlinedirectory.com
Total Views : 4 Word Count Appx. : 368 Date :2007-08-01
See all articles from Marissa Hawke
"Classic Cat Cons: The Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter" search on:
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Global Warming has been the subject of worldwide debate among the top scientists and researchers together with the major players of the automotive industry. At the center of the topic: toxic chemicals that emit out of the automotive engine and the devices that can reduce the pollutants.
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is the byproduct of the incomplete combustion of carbon-containing compounds, notably in internal combustion engines. It is a significantly toxic gas and is the most common type of fatal poisoning in many countries. When inhaled in huge proportions, typical reactions include headaches, dizziness and tiredness On the other hand, severe symptoms are fainting and a possible fatal coma. Carbon monoxide induced from automobile and industrial emissions greatly contribute to the greenhouse effect and to global warming. Climate researchers are warning that efforts to reduce air pollution could, if not well designed, make global warming worse.
The leading car manufacturers of today have considered redesigning their vehicles with highly efficient “environmental” devices that help reduce toxic emissions. First introduced on series production automobiles in the United States since the late 70's, catalytic converters were used to reduce the toxicity of emissions from engines. There are actually two types of converters, the three-way and the two-way cat con.
A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks. First it reduces nitrogen oxides back to nitrogen and oxygen. Second, it oxidizes carbon monoxide to a less harmful carbon dioxide. Third, it oxidizes unburnt carcinogenic hydrocarbons that acts as agents that tends to produce cancer. On the other hand, two-way cat cons combines water to both carbon dioxide and carcinogenic hydrocarbons to decrease their damaging nature.
Found in many cars that were produced within the last two decades, cat cons became the automotive industry's answer to air pollution and global warming. The Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter are considered to be classic cat cons that were very efficient in its functionality. The environmental organization's message to car owners is this. If you happen to own definitive car models like the ones above, replacing the old cat cons with the Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter are the best contribution one can give to environmental causes.
Article Source: http://www.articleonlinedirectory.com
Total Views : 4 Word Count Appx. : 368 Date :2007-08-01
See all articles from Marissa Hawke
"Classic Cat Cons: The Triumph catalytic converter and the Yugo catalytic converter" search on:
Google -Yahoo - AltaVista - A9 - AOL - Ask - Lycos - MSN