By Marc Deschamps
Providing your feline friend with the right cat pet toy will make cat ownership more rewarding.
Many cats spend their days in home environments that are often lonely, and non-stimulating.
Without an outlet for pent-up mental and physical energy, some cats can become stressed, or even destructive. Luckily, you can help minimize these tendencies by enriching your cat’s environment with stimulating, fun toys designed to appeal to their outgoing, playful natures.
Before purchasing any cat pet toy be sure to first “pet-proof” your home by picking up or concealing objects that, if eaten, could cause medical problems.
These include:
-Paper clips, pins, or staples -Rubber bands, string, or shoelaces -Pens or pencils -Wires or power cords -All children’s toys -Socks and pantyhose -Jewelry -Hardware -Human foods or medications
In addition, be sure to remove any items of clothing (including shoes, belts and other delicious leather goods) that your cat might find tasty.
Though cats tend to amuse themselves better than do their canine cousins, they too need some regular mental and physical stimulation to stay happy. Also, without an outlet for their strong predatory instincts, most cats will become stressed or even destructive; it is essential, then, to provide your cat with a stimulating home environment that includes the cat toys.
Cats are not quite as destructive as dogs with regard to playthings. Nevertheless, care should be taken that a non-supervised cat pet toy not contain any easily-swallowed pieces such as buttons, feathers, strings or squeakers.
Often, cat owners find that their feline friend will treat simple household items as treasured toys. Balled-up wads of newspaper, cardboard boxes stuffed with shredded paper, ping-pong balls, or even the cardboard cores of paper towel rolls can often occupy hours of a cat’s time.
The following store-bought toys can also provide your cat with hours of fun. They include:
-Plastic or hard rubber balls, with or without noisemakers inside -Small, soft, stuffed animals, with or without catnip inside -Wind-up or battery-operated toys -Teaser wands or laser pens (operated by you)
Be sure to rotate your cat pet toy (s) on a regular basis, to keep interest levels high. Also, keep them clean.
Don’t simply let your feline friend play with a cat pet toy all on its own; instead, participate in the action. Doing so will help bond you to your cat, and make playtime all the more fun. Whether it’s a game of fetch or a session with the teaser toy, your cat will soon come to see you as its greatest play buddy.
Providing your feline friend with a fun cat pet toy will help minimize problem behaviors and make cat ownership more rewarding.
Marc Deschamps is the editor of Kitten Cat Magazine, a free online publication, where people can share their passion for cats and learn more about this extraordinary animal. Other articles on cat toys can be found at http://www.kitten-cat-magazine.com/cat-scratching-post.html
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
7 Reasons Why Your Cat Needs a Jacket!
By Sarah Thwaites
1. To keep your best friend safe and sound.
Stop worrying about all those dangers your cat faces every time he leaves the house unaccompanied. Risks such as poisoning, paralysis ticks, snake and spider bites, attack by dogs or feral cats or vehicle collision are greatly reduced if he/she is in a CatWalkingJacket on the end of a leash controlled by you!
2. To protect the fauna around your home.
You may love your cat dearly but it is a fact of life that most cats are killers! It is incredibly difficult and unrealistic to make a cat overcome their natural instinct to hunt and kill, but most cat owners have felt the shame when their well-fed darling comes home with a mortally injured or dead animal. If you love all animals then you need to protect them all!
3. To give those 'indoor' cats some 'outside' time.
Perhaps you live in an apartment block and your cat hasn't figured out how to use the lift- yet! Thousands of cats have had to live an indoor life because of location. Indoor cats can get bored, frustrated and ultimately end up driving you crazy! Scratched furniture, damaged ornaments and chewed fabrics don't contribute to a great relationship with your cat. The CatWalkingJacket will open up a whole new world of excitement and entertainment for your cat, even if they have not had the opportunity to develop those outdoor survival skills.
4. To give you the opportunity to bond more deeply with your cat.
Because of its unique shape and 3 strap fastening system the CatWalkingJacket is quick and easy to put on - leaving you with more quality time with your pet. Whether you spend that time lazing on the patio or exploring the depths of your garden/beach/park is entirely up to the two of you!
5. For travel - imagine being able to take your cat on holiday with you!
Most owners have been reluctant to take their cats on vacation because they fear that their pet may run away and be unable to find their way back in an unfamiliar environment. The CatWalkingJacket allows you to explore new places together without the worry.
6. To provide more security when you need it most
Visits to the vet, administering medication, checking for ticks,etc. The CatWalkingJacket provides you with something firm to hold onto even if your cat is wriggling to get away.
7. Cats are notoriously strong-willed, so a regular leash and collar just isn't going to work!
The jacket has to be tough. A CatWalkingJacket is strong, secure and durable yet comfortable and easy to use. It is made of a sports nylon fabric and it's unique shape securely 'cradles' the cat's body and has 3 secure fastening points. We used the jacket on a cat who had reacted strongly against wearing an ordinary collar when he came out of quarantine but he was fine with the CatWalkingJacket and, in fact, he is now quite happy to leave his jacket on when he is inside!
Sarah runs the successful http://www.CatWalkingJacket.com website - the place on the web to buy Walking Jackets for Cats!
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
1. To keep your best friend safe and sound.
Stop worrying about all those dangers your cat faces every time he leaves the house unaccompanied. Risks such as poisoning, paralysis ticks, snake and spider bites, attack by dogs or feral cats or vehicle collision are greatly reduced if he/she is in a CatWalkingJacket on the end of a leash controlled by you!
2. To protect the fauna around your home.
You may love your cat dearly but it is a fact of life that most cats are killers! It is incredibly difficult and unrealistic to make a cat overcome their natural instinct to hunt and kill, but most cat owners have felt the shame when their well-fed darling comes home with a mortally injured or dead animal. If you love all animals then you need to protect them all!
3. To give those 'indoor' cats some 'outside' time.
Perhaps you live in an apartment block and your cat hasn't figured out how to use the lift- yet! Thousands of cats have had to live an indoor life because of location. Indoor cats can get bored, frustrated and ultimately end up driving you crazy! Scratched furniture, damaged ornaments and chewed fabrics don't contribute to a great relationship with your cat. The CatWalkingJacket will open up a whole new world of excitement and entertainment for your cat, even if they have not had the opportunity to develop those outdoor survival skills.
4. To give you the opportunity to bond more deeply with your cat.
Because of its unique shape and 3 strap fastening system the CatWalkingJacket is quick and easy to put on - leaving you with more quality time with your pet. Whether you spend that time lazing on the patio or exploring the depths of your garden/beach/park is entirely up to the two of you!
5. For travel - imagine being able to take your cat on holiday with you!
Most owners have been reluctant to take their cats on vacation because they fear that their pet may run away and be unable to find their way back in an unfamiliar environment. The CatWalkingJacket allows you to explore new places together without the worry.
6. To provide more security when you need it most
Visits to the vet, administering medication, checking for ticks,etc. The CatWalkingJacket provides you with something firm to hold onto even if your cat is wriggling to get away.
7. Cats are notoriously strong-willed, so a regular leash and collar just isn't going to work!
The jacket has to be tough. A CatWalkingJacket is strong, secure and durable yet comfortable and easy to use. It is made of a sports nylon fabric and it's unique shape securely 'cradles' the cat's body and has 3 secure fastening points. We used the jacket on a cat who had reacted strongly against wearing an ordinary collar when he came out of quarantine but he was fine with the CatWalkingJacket and, in fact, he is now quite happy to leave his jacket on when he is inside!
Sarah runs the successful http://www.CatWalkingJacket.com website - the place on the web to buy Walking Jackets for Cats!
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Pilling a Cat
By Deena Caruso
Pilling a cat can be a nightmarish experience. Cats don't want something pushed down their throats, and they'll fight with all their might to prevent it. In fact, it's amazing how powerful their small bodies can be. Here are some ways to make the pilling process easier and less stressful for both you and your cat.
The easiest way of pilling a cat is to crush the pill into a powder by using mortor & pestle or by putting the pill between two spoons. Then mix the powder with a small amount of wet food (preferably a preservative free, healthy wet food). If your cat usually eats dry food, she will probably view the wet food as a treat and eat it up.
If the medication is a capsule, just pull the capsule apart, sprinkle the contents on the wet food, & mix, & serve.
If your cat won't eat the wet food that contains the pill or if she is too ill to eat, you can get a pill gun, also called a pet piller, from your veterinarian. This is a plastic rod with little rubber cups on the end that hold the pill until a plunger is pressed. It's best to get a long gun with a soft tip.
Your vet can show you how to use the pill gun, but here are some basic instructions. Getting your cat's mouth open is going to be the most difficult part. First, be sure the pill is in a handy place. You can put your cat on a bookshelf with her bottom in a corner or you can put her on your lap firmly braced. Have your cat facing to the right if you're right handed, & vice versa. With your left hand, grip your cat at the cheekbones, putting your palm at the top of her head. Keeping your finger off the trigger, with your right hand, insert the pill gun until the pill is positioned over the tongue & open throat. Then pull the trigger & withdraw the gun quickly. Be sure to give your cat a treat directly after giving the pill.
If you don't feel comfortable using a pill gun, you can try giving the pill by hand. Extend your cat's head backwards just far enough so that her nose is pointing towards the ceiling. At this point, most cats will slightly open their mouths. With the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill, open the bottom jaw a little more. You may need to hold her top jaw with your other hand while doing this. Aim straight and lightly throw the pill or drop it so that it hits beyond the hump in her tongue. (Be sure to drop or lightly throw the pill rather than shoving it down so that your cat is not as likely to gag and so that you lessen your chance of getting bitten.) Most cats will then instinctively swallow the pill.
In case none of these pilling strategies work, as a last resort try to find a compounding pharmacy, and have them make flavored liquid or gel out of the medication.
Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Pilling a cat can be a nightmarish experience. Cats don't want something pushed down their throats, and they'll fight with all their might to prevent it. In fact, it's amazing how powerful their small bodies can be. Here are some ways to make the pilling process easier and less stressful for both you and your cat.
The easiest way of pilling a cat is to crush the pill into a powder by using mortor & pestle or by putting the pill between two spoons. Then mix the powder with a small amount of wet food (preferably a preservative free, healthy wet food). If your cat usually eats dry food, she will probably view the wet food as a treat and eat it up.
If the medication is a capsule, just pull the capsule apart, sprinkle the contents on the wet food, & mix, & serve.
If your cat won't eat the wet food that contains the pill or if she is too ill to eat, you can get a pill gun, also called a pet piller, from your veterinarian. This is a plastic rod with little rubber cups on the end that hold the pill until a plunger is pressed. It's best to get a long gun with a soft tip.
Your vet can show you how to use the pill gun, but here are some basic instructions. Getting your cat's mouth open is going to be the most difficult part. First, be sure the pill is in a handy place. You can put your cat on a bookshelf with her bottom in a corner or you can put her on your lap firmly braced. Have your cat facing to the right if you're right handed, & vice versa. With your left hand, grip your cat at the cheekbones, putting your palm at the top of her head. Keeping your finger off the trigger, with your right hand, insert the pill gun until the pill is positioned over the tongue & open throat. Then pull the trigger & withdraw the gun quickly. Be sure to give your cat a treat directly after giving the pill.
If you don't feel comfortable using a pill gun, you can try giving the pill by hand. Extend your cat's head backwards just far enough so that her nose is pointing towards the ceiling. At this point, most cats will slightly open their mouths. With the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill, open the bottom jaw a little more. You may need to hold her top jaw with your other hand while doing this. Aim straight and lightly throw the pill or drop it so that it hits beyond the hump in her tongue. (Be sure to drop or lightly throw the pill rather than shoving it down so that your cat is not as likely to gag and so that you lessen your chance of getting bitten.) Most cats will then instinctively swallow the pill.
In case none of these pilling strategies work, as a last resort try to find a compounding pharmacy, and have them make flavored liquid or gel out of the medication.
Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
How To Stop a Cat From Scratching Your Furniture
By Rose Smith
Fluffy is using your new chair for a scratching post...again!
Its a very natural thing for a cat to sharpen it's claws. After all, they are used for climbing, catching "food" (when necessary), climbing, perching and defending themeselves. Of course, let's not forget another very important trait that cat's need claws for..."kneading your leg" when contentedly curled up on your lap. So, what's a human to do?
Get a scratching post!
It's relatively easy to teach a cat to use a scratching post instead of your own furniture (and in some cases...you!). Even a "slow" cat will catch on to the idea fairly quickly. Many pet stores sell scratching posts and furniture in all shapes and sizes to keep your frolicing feline happy and content.
You can also make your own scratching post out of simple materials lying around your home. For example, take a 4" diameter branch about 2 feet long. Wrap it snuggly and securly with some rope. Voila...simple scratching post. Another option is to cover a 2X4 board with old carpeting.
Once you have a scratching post (either purchased or home- made), place it near the area that your cat spends the most time or next to his favorite "scratching" place. Now comes the hard part...waiting and watching.
As soon as your cat begins to scratch an inappropriate item (from your point of view...not his), quickly say "no" in a deep voice and pick him up. Take him to the new scratching post and rub his paws gently over the post, simulating scratching. You will have to be deligent about this.
Whenever you see your cat using the scratching post on his own, immediately praise him, perhaps even giving him a treat the first few times to reenforce the behavior. A cat learns quickly and it shouldn't take long for him to "readjust" his habits.
GoofusRoofus.com is a fun and humorous site for dog and cat lovers, both young and old. Featuring jokes, posters, puzzles, books, videos, fun facts, informative articles, animal board games, computer games and much more. Be sure to visit us today! http://www.goofusroofus.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Fluffy is using your new chair for a scratching post...again!
Its a very natural thing for a cat to sharpen it's claws. After all, they are used for climbing, catching "food" (when necessary), climbing, perching and defending themeselves. Of course, let's not forget another very important trait that cat's need claws for..."kneading your leg" when contentedly curled up on your lap. So, what's a human to do?
Get a scratching post!
It's relatively easy to teach a cat to use a scratching post instead of your own furniture (and in some cases...you!). Even a "slow" cat will catch on to the idea fairly quickly. Many pet stores sell scratching posts and furniture in all shapes and sizes to keep your frolicing feline happy and content.
You can also make your own scratching post out of simple materials lying around your home. For example, take a 4" diameter branch about 2 feet long. Wrap it snuggly and securly with some rope. Voila...simple scratching post. Another option is to cover a 2X4 board with old carpeting.
Once you have a scratching post (either purchased or home- made), place it near the area that your cat spends the most time or next to his favorite "scratching" place. Now comes the hard part...waiting and watching.
As soon as your cat begins to scratch an inappropriate item (from your point of view...not his), quickly say "no" in a deep voice and pick him up. Take him to the new scratching post and rub his paws gently over the post, simulating scratching. You will have to be deligent about this.
Whenever you see your cat using the scratching post on his own, immediately praise him, perhaps even giving him a treat the first few times to reenforce the behavior. A cat learns quickly and it shouldn't take long for him to "readjust" his habits.
GoofusRoofus.com is a fun and humorous site for dog and cat lovers, both young and old. Featuring jokes, posters, puzzles, books, videos, fun facts, informative articles, animal board games, computer games and much more. Be sure to visit us today! http://www.goofusroofus.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Fighting Cat Allergies
By Rose Smith
It's unfortunate when an owner has to give away a beloved cat because of allergies that have developed in the household. But, before taking that drastic step, here are some tips that you should try first to see if they help alleviate the problem enough, so that Fluffy can continue to stay in her loving home.
1. Try bathing your cat every 4 to 6 weeks with a very mild shampoo (be sure to rinse thoroughly). This helps remove the build up of dandruff beneath the skin. As well, many people don't realize that a cat's saliva is a huge culprit in causing allergies. Because a cat grooms itself so often, there is a build up of a potent protein from the saliva that causes severe allergic reactions. By washing your cat on a regular basis, you can remove much of this build up. But, please do not bathe your cat more often then once a month, otherwise you may dry out the skin, causing the cat to scratch itself and in turn, raising the dander even more.
2. Get a full allergy test done to determine what other household substances you might be allergic too. In many cases, a person allergic to cats is also allergic to other environmental allergens as well. Each additional allergy that you may have, compounds the whole problem.
3. Get rid of carpets and as many nylon and synthetic fabric surfaces as you can. Nylon and synthetic fabrics (in furniture and rugs) attract and hold dust, dander, etc. much more than natural fabrics do. The more washable surfaces you have in your home, the easier it is to keep clean.
4. Use a commercial size air purifier in your home to filter many of the airborne irritants. These air purifiers can have a dramatic affect on your allergies. However, keep in mind that the small room-size units are not large enough to do the job properly, hence why a larger, commercial one is recommended if you wish to see any difference.
5. Wash bedspreads, sheets, pillows, curtains, area rugs and other fabrics often. Also, make sure you vacuum often with a vacuum cleaner that has a good (and clean) filter. Then air out the room to allow any floating dust particles to settle. If possible, get someone else to do the vacuuming.
6. Cat litter can also be a large irritant. Stay away from deodorizing cat litter, as it contains chemicals to help mask the smell in the litterbox. Buy litter that has a low dust ratio and pour it into the pan slowly, so as to keep any clay dust to a minimum. Again, if possible, have someone else in the household change the litterbox.
7. Brush your cat on a daily basis to remove dandruff and old hair, that can trap dander beneath the surface. Better yet, get someone else to do the grooming for you.
It can't hurt to try out some or all of these suggestions and see what type of results you get, before giving away a beloved family member. If you still find that living with your cat is intolerable, then you may have to resign yourself that it's best to give your cat away to a safe and loving home.
GoofusRoofus.com is a fun and humorous site for dog and cat lovers, both young and old. Featuring jokes, posters, puzzles, books, videos, fun facts, informative articles, animal board games, computer games and much more. Be sure to visit us today! http://www.goofusroofus.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
It's unfortunate when an owner has to give away a beloved cat because of allergies that have developed in the household. But, before taking that drastic step, here are some tips that you should try first to see if they help alleviate the problem enough, so that Fluffy can continue to stay in her loving home.
1. Try bathing your cat every 4 to 6 weeks with a very mild shampoo (be sure to rinse thoroughly). This helps remove the build up of dandruff beneath the skin. As well, many people don't realize that a cat's saliva is a huge culprit in causing allergies. Because a cat grooms itself so often, there is a build up of a potent protein from the saliva that causes severe allergic reactions. By washing your cat on a regular basis, you can remove much of this build up. But, please do not bathe your cat more often then once a month, otherwise you may dry out the skin, causing the cat to scratch itself and in turn, raising the dander even more.
2. Get a full allergy test done to determine what other household substances you might be allergic too. In many cases, a person allergic to cats is also allergic to other environmental allergens as well. Each additional allergy that you may have, compounds the whole problem.
3. Get rid of carpets and as many nylon and synthetic fabric surfaces as you can. Nylon and synthetic fabrics (in furniture and rugs) attract and hold dust, dander, etc. much more than natural fabrics do. The more washable surfaces you have in your home, the easier it is to keep clean.
4. Use a commercial size air purifier in your home to filter many of the airborne irritants. These air purifiers can have a dramatic affect on your allergies. However, keep in mind that the small room-size units are not large enough to do the job properly, hence why a larger, commercial one is recommended if you wish to see any difference.
5. Wash bedspreads, sheets, pillows, curtains, area rugs and other fabrics often. Also, make sure you vacuum often with a vacuum cleaner that has a good (and clean) filter. Then air out the room to allow any floating dust particles to settle. If possible, get someone else to do the vacuuming.
6. Cat litter can also be a large irritant. Stay away from deodorizing cat litter, as it contains chemicals to help mask the smell in the litterbox. Buy litter that has a low dust ratio and pour it into the pan slowly, so as to keep any clay dust to a minimum. Again, if possible, have someone else in the household change the litterbox.
7. Brush your cat on a daily basis to remove dandruff and old hair, that can trap dander beneath the surface. Better yet, get someone else to do the grooming for you.
It can't hurt to try out some or all of these suggestions and see what type of results you get, before giving away a beloved family member. If you still find that living with your cat is intolerable, then you may have to resign yourself that it's best to give your cat away to a safe and loving home.
GoofusRoofus.com is a fun and humorous site for dog and cat lovers, both young and old. Featuring jokes, posters, puzzles, books, videos, fun facts, informative articles, animal board games, computer games and much more. Be sure to visit us today! http://www.goofusroofus.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Ten Things I Learned from My Cat
By Rinatta Paries
1. Always be ready to play. Know how to recognize the playful look in the person you love, and immediately start playing.
2. When you are happy to see someone, stretch your arms up to him or her and ask to be picked up.
3. If the person you love forgets to feed you dinner, don't take it personally. Instead, run to sit by your plate and look hungry.
4. Talk to the one you love, incessantly and constantly. It makes him or her feel loved, appreciated and important.
5. Don't be afraid to ask to be touched. Just falling down and looking cute works well. Otherwise, rubbing up against the person you love will do the trick.
6. If you keep asking for attention and don't get any, try disappearing suddenly. Then, don't come back for a little while, even if you are called. Your loved one will think twice before ignoring you next time.
7. Show your love and adoration by bringing presents. Make sure to stand by your present and get fully appreciated.
8. Purr when the person you love is anywhere near you. It will encourage him or her to get closer to you while feeling appreciated.
9. Encourage the person you love to take naps with you. When you take naps together, make sure to cuddle up under the blanket and get as close as you can.
10. Always comfort the person you love, regardless of whether he or she needs emotional or physical comfort. Cuddling, purring, and being sat on are sure cures for almost anything.
Rinatta Paries. Do you know how to attract your ideal mate? Do you know how to build a fulfilling relationship, or how to reinvent yours to meet your needs? Relationship Coach Rinatta Paries can teach you the skills and techniques to attract and sustain long-term, healthy partnerships. Visit www.WhatItTakes.com where you'll find quizzes, classes, advice and a free weekly ezine. Become a "true love magnet(tm)!"
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
1. Always be ready to play. Know how to recognize the playful look in the person you love, and immediately start playing.
2. When you are happy to see someone, stretch your arms up to him or her and ask to be picked up.
3. If the person you love forgets to feed you dinner, don't take it personally. Instead, run to sit by your plate and look hungry.
4. Talk to the one you love, incessantly and constantly. It makes him or her feel loved, appreciated and important.
5. Don't be afraid to ask to be touched. Just falling down and looking cute works well. Otherwise, rubbing up against the person you love will do the trick.
6. If you keep asking for attention and don't get any, try disappearing suddenly. Then, don't come back for a little while, even if you are called. Your loved one will think twice before ignoring you next time.
7. Show your love and adoration by bringing presents. Make sure to stand by your present and get fully appreciated.
8. Purr when the person you love is anywhere near you. It will encourage him or her to get closer to you while feeling appreciated.
9. Encourage the person you love to take naps with you. When you take naps together, make sure to cuddle up under the blanket and get as close as you can.
10. Always comfort the person you love, regardless of whether he or she needs emotional or physical comfort. Cuddling, purring, and being sat on are sure cures for almost anything.
Rinatta Paries. Do you know how to attract your ideal mate? Do you know how to build a fulfilling relationship, or how to reinvent yours to meet your needs? Relationship Coach Rinatta Paries can teach you the skills and techniques to attract and sustain long-term, healthy partnerships. Visit www.WhatItTakes.com where you'll find quizzes, classes, advice and a free weekly ezine. Become a "true love magnet(tm)!"
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
The Horrors of Commercial Pet Food: What Every Dog and Cat Owner Should Know1
By Sylvia Riley
Some of the ingredients that end up in commercial pet foods are truly shocking. What’s more, many of these will not appear on the label and others are hidden under umbrella terms such as ‘meat meal’ and ‘meat by-products’. How can this happen? The pet food industry is highly unregulated. As Ann Martin, author of Foods Pets Die For, writes in her article The Pet Food Industry and its Questionable Practices, ‘Governments in the USA and Canada regulate the labeling of the food, the name and address of the company, the weight of the product, and whether it is made for a dog or cat - nothing more.’
The meats used in pet food can be extremely low grade and unfit for human consumption. Summarized as the ‘4 D’s’ (dead, diseased, disabled and dying), these can include roadkill, zoo animals and infected and cancerous meats.
At the rendering plants ingredients are highly heated and processed, destroying nutrients and enzymes, with strong preservatives added which do not appear on the labels. These include fat stabilizers such as BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), both of which are known to cause liver and kidney dysfunction and Ethoxyquin, a suspected cancer-causing agent. Semi-moist dog foods may also contain propylene glycol, a relation to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), which can destroy red blood cells.
Pets in your pet food
Though reportedly not the case today, it is well recorded that dogs and cats have ended up in dog and cat food. In his 1990 article How Dogs and Cats Get Recycled Into Pet Food, John Eckhouse, an investigative reporter, wrote: ‘Each year, millions of dead American dogs and cats are processed along with billions of pounds of other animal materials by companies known as renderers. The finished products -- tallow and meat meals -- serve as raw materials for thousands of items that include cosmetics and pet food.’
Doctor of weterianry medicine Wendell Belfield in Foods Not Fit For a Pet (Earth Island Journal, 1996), reports that ‘federal and state agencies, including the Food and Drug Administration and medical groups such as the American Veterinary Medical Association and the California Veterinary Medical Association, confirm that pets, on a routine basis, are rendered after they die in animal shelters or are disposed of by health authorities, and the end product frequently finds its way into pet food.’
Toxic Grains
The very use of grains in pet food is questionable as grains are ill-suited to the digestive physiology of carnivores. This is especially so for cats who are obligatory carnivores and meet their glucose requirements through amino acids in their diet. Further, the grains used in dog and cat foods may contain mycotoxins, fungi that can cause chronic conditions and even death in both humans and animals. As the grains used in pet food are low grade, they are dealt with last in the handling process and because of this are often left in storage where insects, mites and mycotoxic molds can grow.
NATURAL NUTRITION GUIDE FOR DOGS AND CATS: http://www.pet-nutrition-guide.com MIRACLE SUPERFOODS: http://www.miracle-superfoods.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Some of the ingredients that end up in commercial pet foods are truly shocking. What’s more, many of these will not appear on the label and others are hidden under umbrella terms such as ‘meat meal’ and ‘meat by-products’. How can this happen? The pet food industry is highly unregulated. As Ann Martin, author of Foods Pets Die For, writes in her article The Pet Food Industry and its Questionable Practices, ‘Governments in the USA and Canada regulate the labeling of the food, the name and address of the company, the weight of the product, and whether it is made for a dog or cat - nothing more.’
The meats used in pet food can be extremely low grade and unfit for human consumption. Summarized as the ‘4 D’s’ (dead, diseased, disabled and dying), these can include roadkill, zoo animals and infected and cancerous meats.
At the rendering plants ingredients are highly heated and processed, destroying nutrients and enzymes, with strong preservatives added which do not appear on the labels. These include fat stabilizers such as BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), both of which are known to cause liver and kidney dysfunction and Ethoxyquin, a suspected cancer-causing agent. Semi-moist dog foods may also contain propylene glycol, a relation to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), which can destroy red blood cells.
Pets in your pet food
Though reportedly not the case today, it is well recorded that dogs and cats have ended up in dog and cat food. In his 1990 article How Dogs and Cats Get Recycled Into Pet Food, John Eckhouse, an investigative reporter, wrote: ‘Each year, millions of dead American dogs and cats are processed along with billions of pounds of other animal materials by companies known as renderers. The finished products -- tallow and meat meals -- serve as raw materials for thousands of items that include cosmetics and pet food.’
Doctor of weterianry medicine Wendell Belfield in Foods Not Fit For a Pet (Earth Island Journal, 1996), reports that ‘federal and state agencies, including the Food and Drug Administration and medical groups such as the American Veterinary Medical Association and the California Veterinary Medical Association, confirm that pets, on a routine basis, are rendered after they die in animal shelters or are disposed of by health authorities, and the end product frequently finds its way into pet food.’
Toxic Grains
The very use of grains in pet food is questionable as grains are ill-suited to the digestive physiology of carnivores. This is especially so for cats who are obligatory carnivores and meet their glucose requirements through amino acids in their diet. Further, the grains used in dog and cat foods may contain mycotoxins, fungi that can cause chronic conditions and even death in both humans and animals. As the grains used in pet food are low grade, they are dealt with last in the handling process and because of this are often left in storage where insects, mites and mycotoxic molds can grow.
NATURAL NUTRITION GUIDE FOR DOGS AND CATS: http://www.pet-nutrition-guide.com MIRACLE SUPERFOODS: http://www.miracle-superfoods.com
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Caring for a Ragdoll Cat2
By: Ragdollcatguide.com Editors
Litterbox
The litterbox should be kept in a fairly secluded area to allow for privacy, but not so out of the way that it is difficult to access for cleaning. Usually a laundry room or other spare room serves as a good location.
We recommend scooping out the inside of the box at least once a day, and actually replacing the litter weekly. If you have more than one cat, then it may be necessary to clean the box twice daily, morning and night for example.
There are many different brands and types of litter out there, it is just a matter of preference. The main thing is to find something that your cat will use, is easy to keep clean and affordable for your budget.
Veterinarian
You should take your ragdoll to a veterinarian on a regular basis according to what they recommend. You will want to get vaccination shots and any other treatments that will keep your cat healthy and safe.
There may be special considerations if your ragdoll spends more time outside, such as pest control and a higher susceptibility to disease. Make sure you discuss this with your vet and work out a plan that makes sense.
Visit the The Ragdoll Cat Guide at http://www.ragdollcatguide.com to get a wealth of information about Ragdoll cats.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Litterbox
The litterbox should be kept in a fairly secluded area to allow for privacy, but not so out of the way that it is difficult to access for cleaning. Usually a laundry room or other spare room serves as a good location.
We recommend scooping out the inside of the box at least once a day, and actually replacing the litter weekly. If you have more than one cat, then it may be necessary to clean the box twice daily, morning and night for example.
There are many different brands and types of litter out there, it is just a matter of preference. The main thing is to find something that your cat will use, is easy to keep clean and affordable for your budget.
Veterinarian
You should take your ragdoll to a veterinarian on a regular basis according to what they recommend. You will want to get vaccination shots and any other treatments that will keep your cat healthy and safe.
There may be special considerations if your ragdoll spends more time outside, such as pest control and a higher susceptibility to disease. Make sure you discuss this with your vet and work out a plan that makes sense.
Visit the The Ragdoll Cat Guide at http://www.ragdollcatguide.com to get a wealth of information about Ragdoll cats.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Caring for a Ragdoll Cat1
By Ragdollcatguide.com Editors
The ragdoll cat is a large breed of cat, best known for its easygoing and mellow nature. They have long, thick fur coats and markings that resemble a siamese. Caring for your ragdoll cat should involve a regular feeding and grooming schedule, along with regular visits to the veterinarian for checkups and vaccinations. If you take good care of your ragdoll cat, they will be healthy, happy, and a better active pet for you to enjoy.
Feeding
Fresh food and water is an absolute necessity for your ragdoll. It is recommended that you always have a bowl full of dry food available for your cat, as well as a bowl of clean water. Wet food is probably not necessary on a daily basis, but it is really up to you, and what your ragdoll prefers. You may need to experiment with different brands and flavors of wet food. It can provide extra nutrients and add variety to your ragdoll's diet. We recommend feeding your ragdoll one of the premium brands of food, as the quality is usually better. Usually kittens should have a special formula of food, so check with your veterinarian or local pet store if your not sure.
You should try to clean the water bowl daily, and the food bowl as much as possible to prevent germs and bacteria from building up.
Grooming
Ragdoll coats can vary in thickness and hair type. The average ragdoll hair is fairly thick, and very soft to the touch. The length of the fur can be medium to long.
They usually do a good job of grooming themselves, and don't require excessive brushing. It is a good idea to brush them strenuously a couple of times a week to prevent matting of the fur. The other reason for brushing on a regular schedule, is if you happen to find a knot forming, you can easily brush it out before it gets out of control.
Ragdolls tend to enjoy grooming and make it easy for you to brush away!
Bathing
Bathing is not really necessary if regular grooming is done. It may be beneficial to give your ragdoll a bath a couple of times a year, to clean the coat if really dirty or if they have gotten into something that can not be brushed out.
Make sure that you use a shampoo and conditioner that is formulated especially for cats, as regular human products may be harmful to your ragdoll.
Claws
Declawing a cat is a controversial subject, and one that brings many different opinions. We generally don't recommend declawing a ragdoll unless it will help with the safety within a household, specifically with children. Clipping the claws can be done on a regular basis to avoid damage to your furniture or other items in the house, so if that is your only reason for declawing the cat, your decision should be weighed carefully because it is not reversible.
Keep in mind that if a ragdoll cat is declawed, it should be limited in it's exposure to the outside world. Without front claws, a ragdoll doesn't have much of a defense against other animals or threats that it might encounter.
Visit the The Ragdoll Cat Guide at http://www.ragdollcatguide.com to get a wealth of information about Ragdoll cats.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
The ragdoll cat is a large breed of cat, best known for its easygoing and mellow nature. They have long, thick fur coats and markings that resemble a siamese. Caring for your ragdoll cat should involve a regular feeding and grooming schedule, along with regular visits to the veterinarian for checkups and vaccinations. If you take good care of your ragdoll cat, they will be healthy, happy, and a better active pet for you to enjoy.
Feeding
Fresh food and water is an absolute necessity for your ragdoll. It is recommended that you always have a bowl full of dry food available for your cat, as well as a bowl of clean water. Wet food is probably not necessary on a daily basis, but it is really up to you, and what your ragdoll prefers. You may need to experiment with different brands and flavors of wet food. It can provide extra nutrients and add variety to your ragdoll's diet. We recommend feeding your ragdoll one of the premium brands of food, as the quality is usually better. Usually kittens should have a special formula of food, so check with your veterinarian or local pet store if your not sure.
You should try to clean the water bowl daily, and the food bowl as much as possible to prevent germs and bacteria from building up.
Grooming
Ragdoll coats can vary in thickness and hair type. The average ragdoll hair is fairly thick, and very soft to the touch. The length of the fur can be medium to long.
They usually do a good job of grooming themselves, and don't require excessive brushing. It is a good idea to brush them strenuously a couple of times a week to prevent matting of the fur. The other reason for brushing on a regular schedule, is if you happen to find a knot forming, you can easily brush it out before it gets out of control.
Ragdolls tend to enjoy grooming and make it easy for you to brush away!
Bathing
Bathing is not really necessary if regular grooming is done. It may be beneficial to give your ragdoll a bath a couple of times a year, to clean the coat if really dirty or if they have gotten into something that can not be brushed out.
Make sure that you use a shampoo and conditioner that is formulated especially for cats, as regular human products may be harmful to your ragdoll.
Claws
Declawing a cat is a controversial subject, and one that brings many different opinions. We generally don't recommend declawing a ragdoll unless it will help with the safety within a household, specifically with children. Clipping the claws can be done on a regular basis to avoid damage to your furniture or other items in the house, so if that is your only reason for declawing the cat, your decision should be weighed carefully because it is not reversible.
Keep in mind that if a ragdoll cat is declawed, it should be limited in it's exposure to the outside world. Without front claws, a ragdoll doesn't have much of a defense against other animals or threats that it might encounter.
Visit the The Ragdoll Cat Guide at http://www.ragdollcatguide.com to get a wealth of information about Ragdoll cats.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
Introducing Cats to Cats
By: Michael Douglas
The key requirements in bringing a new cat into your home where another cat or cats are already well established are patience and a gradual approach. First, allow the newcomer to explore the house without coming into any contact with the feline inhabitants. The reason for this is that behaviourists have found that where a cat is on unfamiliar territory and meets a strange cat which is familiar with it, the former is far more interested in first investigating its surroundings than in checking out the other animal. Territory is of supreme importance to cats.
Next, put the new cat in a room alone with its own food and water bowls, litter tray and bed. Begin feeding the new cat and the other cats on either side of the door, putting their dishes near, but not too close, to the door. Gradually, over a day or two, move the dishes closer to the door.
Now, open the door a crack, just sufficiently for the cats to be able to see one another while they feed, and wedge it. Also, exchange the bedding of the newcomer and the residents so that they become familiar with each other's scent. Some experts actually recommend spraying both lots of bedding with one of the cat scent pheromones, such as Feliway, that are now available. Once the newcomer is eating and using its litter tray regularly, allow it out from time to time to explore the house again, still without meeting the other cats face to face.
Finally, you can open the door wide for a while so that the cats can mix. Do it gradually, extending the contact time more and more as things settle down. There may well be some moderate displays of aggression and fear with some growling, hissing and spitting at first, but unless they are severe, these almost always tend to diminish steadily. If you see either cat becoming distinctly aggressive or frightened, separate them, not by charging in but by throwing a large towel over each of them and carting them off so that they can reconsider things. You will then need to begin the introduction process once again. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat plus one extra. During the 'getting to know you' period, which can last weeks, it is best to keep the cats separated when you go out.
Throughout the process of introduction, it is vital that you continually boost the confidence of the resident cat. It should receive more attention, more fussing over, than the new arrival. Of the two cats, it is the one to feel affronted, and it will be on the lookout for any sign that your affections have been transferred to this Johnny-come-lately. Of course you must make friends yourself with the newcomer, play with it, stroke it and talk to it, but in the initial period you should do this only when the resident cat is not present. Whenever you are with the cats, keep talking, always quietly in an upbeat, encouraging tone of voice, never shouting or scolding.
This familiarization by separation technique, of introducing animal strangers to one another is essentially the same as that used in zoos and safari parks for tigers. In their case there is more visual contact, as the two animals are on each side of a gated mesh barrier. There is of course no question of human beings going in with them, let alone holding them on laps. With tigers, the two individuals get to know one another well, but without bodily contact, over a much longer introductory period of at least one year. When, at last, it is considered time to open the gate and let them mix, it is always an event of high tension for the zoo staff, even though for months the animals may have behaved impeccably towards one another.
A tranquillizing dart rifle is loaded and ready, just in case, although most tiger introductions pass off without trouble, but it is not very uncommon, as the two big cats at last come face to face with no weld-mesh between them, for one suddenly to pounce and, within the twinkling of an eye, deliver the classical, lethal neck bite. No time for tranquillizing darts then. The cause of the tragedy, once again, is probably territorial.
Visit http://www.catfactfiles.com for tips on cat training, preventing and solving your cat behavior problems. Extensive information and FAQs about pedigreed cat breeds, cat health and general cat care tips.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com
The key requirements in bringing a new cat into your home where another cat or cats are already well established are patience and a gradual approach. First, allow the newcomer to explore the house without coming into any contact with the feline inhabitants. The reason for this is that behaviourists have found that where a cat is on unfamiliar territory and meets a strange cat which is familiar with it, the former is far more interested in first investigating its surroundings than in checking out the other animal. Territory is of supreme importance to cats.
Next, put the new cat in a room alone with its own food and water bowls, litter tray and bed. Begin feeding the new cat and the other cats on either side of the door, putting their dishes near, but not too close, to the door. Gradually, over a day or two, move the dishes closer to the door.
Now, open the door a crack, just sufficiently for the cats to be able to see one another while they feed, and wedge it. Also, exchange the bedding of the newcomer and the residents so that they become familiar with each other's scent. Some experts actually recommend spraying both lots of bedding with one of the cat scent pheromones, such as Feliway, that are now available. Once the newcomer is eating and using its litter tray regularly, allow it out from time to time to explore the house again, still without meeting the other cats face to face.
Finally, you can open the door wide for a while so that the cats can mix. Do it gradually, extending the contact time more and more as things settle down. There may well be some moderate displays of aggression and fear with some growling, hissing and spitting at first, but unless they are severe, these almost always tend to diminish steadily. If you see either cat becoming distinctly aggressive or frightened, separate them, not by charging in but by throwing a large towel over each of them and carting them off so that they can reconsider things. You will then need to begin the introduction process once again. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat plus one extra. During the 'getting to know you' period, which can last weeks, it is best to keep the cats separated when you go out.
Throughout the process of introduction, it is vital that you continually boost the confidence of the resident cat. It should receive more attention, more fussing over, than the new arrival. Of the two cats, it is the one to feel affronted, and it will be on the lookout for any sign that your affections have been transferred to this Johnny-come-lately. Of course you must make friends yourself with the newcomer, play with it, stroke it and talk to it, but in the initial period you should do this only when the resident cat is not present. Whenever you are with the cats, keep talking, always quietly in an upbeat, encouraging tone of voice, never shouting or scolding.
This familiarization by separation technique, of introducing animal strangers to one another is essentially the same as that used in zoos and safari parks for tigers. In their case there is more visual contact, as the two animals are on each side of a gated mesh barrier. There is of course no question of human beings going in with them, let alone holding them on laps. With tigers, the two individuals get to know one another well, but without bodily contact, over a much longer introductory period of at least one year. When, at last, it is considered time to open the gate and let them mix, it is always an event of high tension for the zoo staff, even though for months the animals may have behaved impeccably towards one another.
A tranquillizing dart rifle is loaded and ready, just in case, although most tiger introductions pass off without trouble, but it is not very uncommon, as the two big cats at last come face to face with no weld-mesh between them, for one suddenly to pounce and, within the twinkling of an eye, deliver the classical, lethal neck bite. No time for tranquillizing darts then. The cause of the tragedy, once again, is probably territorial.
Visit http://www.catfactfiles.com for tips on cat training, preventing and solving your cat behavior problems. Extensive information and FAQs about pedigreed cat breeds, cat health and general cat care tips.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com